Hyundai Elantra While not much larger than the accent, the Elantra offers similar room, but a sportier look and feel, as well as more power.

2012 Elantra GLS

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2019, 08:02 AM
Tamara Jones Alexander's Avatar
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Default 2012 Elantra GLS

Hi Everyone
Yesterday my drivers side window went down but then it wouldn't go back up. All the other windows work fine it's just the drivers side.
Any ideas of what's going on?

Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 12-01-2019, 02:06 PM
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Without actually doing some testing to confirm suspicions, could be door window switch or possible broken wire.
 
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Old 12-01-2019, 05:54 PM
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It could be the switch, regulator or a broken wire. In a couple of my older vehicles I discovered the wiring harnesses passing between the driver's door jambs into the doors to have several broken wires. The driver's door holds the master wiring harness and controls for all power windows and mirrors. The reason the harness gets broken wires is because it's bent back and forth every time the door is opened and closed. This door gets more use than any other and over the years of repeating this bending the copper wires become fatigued and break. I had to removed the harnesses and repair the broken wires in my vehicles and that restored normal window and mirror operation. My 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic lost the the right power mirror and the front and rear passenger windows due to wiring breaks.

Regardless of the cause of the failure (switch, regulator or broken wire) the door will require partial disassembly to access the interior to troubleshoot. Not being able to replace a window regulator in my 2007 Honda Pilot, for a couple days, I unscrewed the window glass from the regulator and made a prop from a small piece of wood trim to fit inside the door and brace the window in the up position. This held the window closed until the new regulator arrived and I could replace it. Typically, two screws can be removed that will separate the glass from the regulator. You might have that done anyway until you can isolate the cause of the failure.
 
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Old 12-01-2019, 05:58 PM
Tamara Jones Alexander's Avatar
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Originally Posted by hanky
Without actually doing some testing to confirm suspicions, could be door window switch or possible broken wire.
I checked the fuse, and called a couple stores for parts, I was going to just replace the motor because the guys at three different stores said it sounded like the motor. Of course none of them had it in stock. I have an appointment at the dealership on Saturday.
Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 12-02-2019, 08:50 AM
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Thank you for getting back to us. Would appreciate if you would be kind enough to let us know what they found, thanks.
 
  #6  
Old 12-02-2019, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
Thank you for getting back to us. Would appreciate if you would be kind enough to let us know what they found, thanks.
I definitely will!
 
  #7  
Old 12-28-2019, 09:32 AM
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Most older vehicles develop broken wires in the driver's door (master) harness. In your car if the window goes down but not up the motor is evidently working just fine but the electrical circuit (wire) for raising the window is bad (electrically open). I repaired the harness in my 2011 Elantra as well as in my 1996 & 1997 Jeep Cherokees. The latter vehicle harnesses, being a lot older, had multiple broken wires that disabled window, door lock and power mirror functions. The broken wires were located right at the bend where the harnesses exit the door jambs and enter the doors. Years of bending with each opening and closing of the door causes the copper wires to fatigue and eventually break. Repairing the harnesses restored all functions in my vehicles.

The typical repair to a broken wire is to reconnect the broken ends together through the use of a butt splice, available at most hardware stores, and their sizes are color-coded. The color of the splice (size) for the car harnesses is blue. You simply strip away 1/4 inch of the insulation jacketing at the end of each wire with wire stripping pliers. The wire stripping pliers are usually equipped with crimping notches for the butt splices as well. The notches for the butt splices are typically identified by colored dots corresponding to the size of the butt splices. These pliers are usually less than $10.00. Once the ends of the wires are stripped and the strands twisted together by rolling them between the index finger and thumb, insert one of the exposed ends into one end of the butt splice, crimp it with crimping pliers and then repeat the procedure with the other wire end. Wrapping the wire splice repair with electrical tape finishes the job. In my 1996 Cherokee I had to splice 6 wires that were broken and spliced another 3 that were close to breaking.

Once the harness is exposed and the broken wire found, check the other wires at the same location for weakness. This is done by gently bending them. A wire that bends very easily with an acute bend probably has many broken strands but just enough remaining intact to allow electricity to flow. These should be cut at the bend and repaired per the above procedure. It's called preventive maintenance. You do not want to take apart your door a second time to access the harness so do the work one time.
 
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