Correct output for crank position sensor
No change.. it was not the crank position sensor. I am out of ideas folks..
edit: I checked the timing belt.. I put a chalk mark on it to make sure its moving, and it is.
Is it possible that the rest of the injectors need to be replaced? There was a chalky deposit in the fuel rail.. I replaced injector #4 because I thought it was faulty, and now the #4 plug is always wet when trying to start.
edit: I checked the timing belt.. I put a chalk mark on it to make sure its moving, and it is.
Is it possible that the rest of the injectors need to be replaced? There was a chalky deposit in the fuel rail.. I replaced injector #4 because I thought it was faulty, and now the #4 plug is always wet when trying to start.
Last edited by bernd; Jan 14, 2011 at 01:45 PM.
I pulled the rail out and put a shop rag underneath it. Tried starting it, and the only evidence of fuel spray is coming from #4, the new injector. Huh... I guess that's the problem, but I didn't suspect all of the injectors would go at the same time. I'll update once I get the remaining injectors replaced.
I pulled the rail out and put a shop rag underneath it. Tried starting it, and the only evidence of fuel spray is coming from #4, the new injector. Huh... I guess that's the problem, but I didn't suspect all of the injectors would go at the same time. I'll update once I get the remaining injectors replaced.
here's what i'd do: go to a junkyard and get a bunch of injectors for the same engine. they're easy to pull, you can get them cheap...if you're honest and don't pocket them.
come home and swap in the new ones. if it works, well something really bloody odd happened...if not then i suspect a wiring or ECU issue. hell, i'd even pull a spare ECU at the junkers. sometimes trial and error is the easiest way to diagnose.
Update: I bought a used fuel rail and a set of injectors from a parts car, installed it and she started right up. When I took apart the original fuel rail the first time, I found a white chalky substance deposited along the bottom. I don't know what caused it.. ethanol? water in the gas? I think that stuff worked its way into the injectors binding them up. I'm just glad its running again.
good work man
always a good feeling when you figure out something like that, and sometimes you do have to replace parts and hope it works. a quick trick for injectors i should have remembered (my bad): get a mechanics stethoscope, they're not expensive. it just as a steel rod on it instead of the hollow pad you use on humans. put it on an injector and you should be able to hear a definite snap from it.
the chalky substance...i'm almost wondering if its aluminum oxide, the fuel rail is aluminum. cheap gas caused corrosion over long term, then some of that crap got into the injectors and blocked them up.
i'd replace the fuel filter while you're at it. if its anything else going on, its going to be saturated with that crap.
always a good feeling when you figure out something like that, and sometimes you do have to replace parts and hope it works. a quick trick for injectors i should have remembered (my bad): get a mechanics stethoscope, they're not expensive. it just as a steel rod on it instead of the hollow pad you use on humans. put it on an injector and you should be able to hear a definite snap from it.the chalky substance...i'm almost wondering if its aluminum oxide, the fuel rail is aluminum. cheap gas caused corrosion over long term, then some of that crap got into the injectors and blocked them up.
i'd replace the fuel filter while you're at it. if its anything else going on, its going to be saturated with that crap.
Hi There yes this might be an older post. but I will see if this helps somebody someway.
Pleasure to be a new member and yes there are many things I do not know. I just bought a 2013 Hyudai Accent and having huge problems with this vehicle.
1. the rpm tach on the cluster is on and stays on until the vehicle jerks a little and then bang off goes the rpm gauge and remains off (most times the vehicle will stall 99% of the time.
2. now it will just crank over and over and then starts but agaiin now with no tach guage on the cluster.
so this is where iam at replaced the crankshaft sensor to no avail used a tad of loctite (red) and for some reason the first one I did tighten up was very loose there was a small gap in it I could also see the oil seal peaking outwhen installed. and then a start and then right off the vehicle went.
3.after this I placed the old one back in and away it went as usual with a few cranks of the motor away it went with the P0335 AND 02 SENSOR HAS ALSO BEEN ON VEHICLE HAS 161,000 ON IT BOUGHT FOR 600.00 GREAT DRIVING CAR LOVE IT BUT NOT THESE THINGS.
Any help would be great.
Thanks again
Dave.
Pleasure to be a new member and yes there are many things I do not know. I just bought a 2013 Hyudai Accent and having huge problems with this vehicle.
1. the rpm tach on the cluster is on and stays on until the vehicle jerks a little and then bang off goes the rpm gauge and remains off (most times the vehicle will stall 99% of the time.
2. now it will just crank over and over and then starts but agaiin now with no tach guage on the cluster.
so this is where iam at replaced the crankshaft sensor to no avail used a tad of loctite (red) and for some reason the first one I did tighten up was very loose there was a small gap in it I could also see the oil seal peaking outwhen installed. and then a start and then right off the vehicle went.
3.after this I placed the old one back in and away it went as usual with a few cranks of the motor away it went with the P0335 AND 02 SENSOR HAS ALSO BEEN ON VEHICLE HAS 161,000 ON IT BOUGHT FOR 600.00 GREAT DRIVING CAR LOVE IT BUT NOT THESE THINGS.
Any help would be great.
Thanks again
Dave.
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james92se
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