Elantra Fuel pump relay circuit
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,254
You'll find pictures attached with the Crank Shaft Position Sensor location. If there not clear enough let me know I can try to make it more clear with my car.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ERIC&A%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.jpg[/IMG]
You may want to start by testing your harness and sensor. Facing the connector pin #1 will be at your right. With key in "ON" position you should have 12v on pin #1 and 0v on #2. With engine "OFF" look at the resistance between pin #3 and the ground terminal of your battery: Should be 0 ohm. Pin #2 resistance should be infinite vs ground. Inspection of the sensor itself would require an oscilloscope but can try this easy test: Check the resistance between each pins. The resistance should be anything but 0 (short circuit). I had this happening to me once and was getting ready to change the sensor. It was a Sunday (no part store opened) so I had to put it back in place. I had removed the sensor so I cleaned it with brake cleaner, torqued the 3 pins on the sensor and put everything back in place with dielectric grease. The problem never came back! I may have been lucky or maybe one of my 3 pins was loose in the connector...
If you plan to remove the sensor be very gentle. Theses sensors sticks to the motor body and can crack easily. If it breaks the end of the sensor may end up in your oil pan so be careful.
As for the check engine light it will only come on and code if the problem happens 2 driving cycles in a row.
This sensor is vital. The ECU uses this sensor to determine the RPM, injection duration and ignition timing.
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ERIC&A%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-4.jpg[/IMG]
You may want to start by testing your harness and sensor. Facing the connector pin #1 will be at your right. With key in "ON" position you should have 12v on pin #1 and 0v on #2. With engine "OFF" look at the resistance between pin #3 and the ground terminal of your battery: Should be 0 ohm. Pin #2 resistance should be infinite vs ground. Inspection of the sensor itself would require an oscilloscope but can try this easy test: Check the resistance between each pins. The resistance should be anything but 0 (short circuit). I had this happening to me once and was getting ready to change the sensor. It was a Sunday (no part store opened) so I had to put it back in place. I had removed the sensor so I cleaned it with brake cleaner, torqued the 3 pins on the sensor and put everything back in place with dielectric grease. The problem never came back! I may have been lucky or maybe one of my 3 pins was loose in the connector...
If you plan to remove the sensor be very gentle. Theses sensors sticks to the motor body and can crack easily. If it breaks the end of the sensor may end up in your oil pan so be careful.
As for the check engine light it will only come on and code if the problem happens 2 driving cycles in a row.
This sensor is vital. The ECU uses this sensor to determine the RPM, injection duration and ignition timing.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Elantra Problem
Hi,
I noticed you said your Elantra was acting as if it wasn't receiving enough gas at times. I had a similar problem with my 2003 Sonata 4 Cyl. My car would lose pretty much all power at would run at about 500 RPM's. It was just above the point of breaking down, but it would hardly ever die. Every now and then it would die and I would have to restart it on the street, but it would usually run below 1000 rpm's.
If you are experiencing similar problems, I fixed this issue by replacing the ignition coils. The coils are expensive (around $100 each), but it is a really simple fix. You take the engine cover off, and pop out the rubber coils. Then pop the new ones in. I'm not sure if it's the same on the Elantra, but any info could help!
I noticed you said your Elantra was acting as if it wasn't receiving enough gas at times. I had a similar problem with my 2003 Sonata 4 Cyl. My car would lose pretty much all power at would run at about 500 RPM's. It was just above the point of breaking down, but it would hardly ever die. Every now and then it would die and I would have to restart it on the street, but it would usually run below 1000 rpm's.
If you are experiencing similar problems, I fixed this issue by replacing the ignition coils. The coils are expensive (around $100 each), but it is a really simple fix. You take the engine cover off, and pop out the rubber coils. Then pop the new ones in. I'm not sure if it's the same on the Elantra, but any info could help!
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Mar 18, 2006 07:38 PM
