Hello,

I was looking under the hood just for fun today, and noticed that one of the screws that holds the engine cover is missing. I've always taken them to the dealership for my services and cannot believe that this happened. (Except, I got tires done at Sears, but they didn't do anything that needed that cover off..)

I am actually a little disappointed that the dealership forgot to put my screw on. While it's not effecting the performance of the car, it just reminds me the saying that "if you want it done right, do it yourself."

Well, I have to change the oil & filter. I have never done this before, and I do not have any kind of tools. I am planning to buy a good tool set so I can change the brakes later too. I need some suggestions.

My car is 2007 Santa Fe Limited with 3.3 Engine.

Tool set I have in mind:
Craftsman Mechanics Toolset 35255 - $189.99
Craftsman Professional 3 Ton Jack Stands - $24.99
Ramps for oil change, and I might borrow a Jack from a friend when I need to do brake replacement?

I don't have a garage so I am a little hesitant on buying a heavy Jack. I will be doing oil change mostly, so maybe Ramps will be just fine without Jack stands? Any suggestions?

Next, the parts that I need to change my oil
Mobil 1 Synthetic Motor Oil 5w-30 from Costco (6qts for $25.99 with coupon now)
Genuine Hyundai Cartridge Filter 26320-3C100 ($7-$11 range)
And Drain plug gasket (apparently, they need to be replaced everytime?)

It's a big initial investment, but if I do my own oil change with Synthetic oil and increase the mileage between changes, and brake replacement soon, I think it might be worth it and might get my investment back within a year.

I've been doing oil change exactly every 3,000 miles at the dealership but if I go with synthetic, I guess I can push it to 7,500 miles between changes with filter just like the manual says.

Do you have any suggestions on my plan?
Also, do you have any suggestions on where I should order my genuine Hyundai filter and gasket on-line? I could go to the dealership but it's probably over-priced. But I am also afraid that I will get a knock-off online. Do you think Wix 57061 from Amazon is just as good or better? I heard NAPA ones are the best, but I am not sure.
Apparently Hyundai issued a TSB (#05-20-002) saying that after-market filters will cause knocks on the engine. Will using any other filter other than Hyundai part void warranty?

And where should I get a gasket?

Oh, and where should I get that missing screw that dealership misplaced? Size that I should get etc if I were to get from Lowes?

And, are there any pictures on where exactly the drain plug is located on the bottom of the car? If there's a youtube video (I couldn't find one, maybe I will make one), that would be awesome!

Thank you very much for reading my lengthy question!

 

Go to your local Hyundai or Kia shop, and ask for price on a case of the 3C100 oil filter..

Too easy... why fuss with shipping-handling charges, not being home to take delivery, damaged product during shipping, product stolen off porch because fella left it in plain sight, dropped at wrong address across town....

Walk into a Hyundai or Kia dealer parts dept,, buy case of filters, walk out to car and put in trunk, go home... none of the above events happened now... safe and sound same day delivery.

BTW, each 3C100 filter box contains a GENUINE Hyundai/Kia filter element, and a plastic bag with 2 o-ring of proper OD, and a GENUINE Hyundai/Kia drain plug gasket.. no running around looking for parts, they all in the box..

No need to worry about the non-Hyundai o-ring at the cap not sealing the cap to canister... we have people come in with Joes oil change sticker and oil all over top of A/T because JIFFY o-ring is too small OD to seal the canister, so we have oil seeping out under pressure...

 

I have inventory, so I can supply pics...

 

I would not use ramps, but instead use jack stands. Sometimes if
the angle of the driveway or area is enough you'll just need to jack up
the front end of the vehicle and it may be level, or close to it. You
could also make some ramps out of 2X6's doubled up. Auto ramps
however will get your front end way up and the vehicle certainly won't be
level.

Excellent choice on the oil, although I use Mobil 1 0W30. By the way,
3,000 miles is still too low with even conventional motor oil. I've gone
up to 6,000 when I used regular oil and was fine. I recently had an oil
analysis done on my motor oil on my 2005 Santa Fe and was told to go
up to 8,000 miles and do another analysis and it should be fine since
the switch to synthetic.

I also agree with the Hyundai filter. I use OEM on both my vehicles.
There are some decent aftermarket filters out there, but I choose
to stick with the original. I bought a case online from a Hyundai
dealer and saved some money. At the rate I change the oil I'll probably
have some left over when I get rid of the Santa Fe. Whatever you
do stay away from Fram filters if you do decide to go aftermarket.
Google "Oil Filter Study" and you'll probably find a website with lots of
info on oil filters.

And as a plus you'll be saving money and the environment with less
oil changes hence less waste oil to dispose of.

John

 

Ok, here's a question.
Same engine: 3.3 in a 2007 Sonata. If I want to install JUST the OEM filter cartridge, do I need to drain the oil? My gut says no, because the filter housing appears to be high above the level of oil in the crankcase. Reason I'm asking? I think the last oil change did not use OEM filter and that could be the cause of ticking I hear on cold start up. Got that info from reading through a lot of posts suggesting that not using an OEM filter could be the cause. For the price of a few bucks, I thought I'd try it and see. But, I don't want to do an oil change right now. Thx for any insights you have.

 

Your gut feeling is correct. Unscrew the cap. When the bottom o-ring seal on the center spindle is pulled loose, the oil trapped in the sump will drain to the crankcase. Wait a few seconds (or minutes) for the residual oil to drain off the filter and spindle, then replace the filter and both o-rings that come with the kit. Screw the filter back on tight and you are good to go. There are torque values published for screwing the cap back on, but I simply screw it on until the plastic lip on the cap comes in contact with the aluminum flange on the sump body. With the large o-ring in place, it can be tough to turn by hand. Go easy with a strap wrench if necessary, but don't over tighten and crack the cap.

I am betting the ticking you hear is the injector tick that is common on this engine. Since the engine use a cartridge filter, there is no other mechanism such a bypass valve, anti-siphon valve or head plate on or in the filter to restrict flow. The oil flow issues are related to the canister type filters used on other engine designs.

 

Unscrew cap, lift slowly incase canister full of oil, swap filter... change the large o-ring... a lot of them non-Hyundai rings or used ring are too small diameter to seal to the canister real well..



Here is aftermarket ring -- it leaked all over.. not warranty :



Here is OE ring from -3C100 kit, notice the height above the surface, it will compress into the canister and seal good...

 

Thanks Ken. Glad to hear this info. I'm going to head over to Hyundai and buy a case of filters so I have a ready stock instead of having to make a bunch of small trips over the next few years.

SBR711- Great pics. They really show the difference that can't be put in words sometimes.

Thanks to both of you for your replies and information.

 

Allan R - FYI, there was an issue with defective timing chain tensioners on the 3.3 liter V6 installed in 2006 and early 2007 Sonatas. Sounds more like a rattle than a tick at startup. Would initially go way as the engine warmed up, but would eventually get worse. You can take your VIN into a Hyundai service manager and have them look up if yours was one of these engines, and whether or not the tensioners were replaced under the service campaign to correct this problem.

 

Ok, this is good news to hear. Can you give me the service campaign number? I've got the car booked in for Dec 10 to have the brake light recall done. They looked to see if there were any other recalls, but I'm not sure that includes service campaigns? Anyway, if you can direct me to the link or know the number that would be great. The car was built in Jan 2006 and went into service in December 06. I'd sure like to know where it was stored until it was sold.