3.5l Santa Fe spark plug change???
 

Somewhere I read "better to let the service center do it"
I've changed plugs in anything I've come across from my '70 Camaro...up to my 2001 Volvo. Does the Santa Fe have any of the goofy "remove engine mounts and jack up engine 5 inches" kind-of stuff? If its a whole-day knuckle scraper....I'll bring it in. If I need only my spark plug socket on the ratchet wrench....I'll change 'em
Anyone been there, done that??
Thanks!!

Look at it... aint that hard.

Bunch of bolt across back of plenum, a clamp for the EGR pipe, 2 bolt at EGR valve, plenum bolts, air inlet boot, couple rubber lines and tip manifold to driver side and use rope or other to hold it out of your way..
Replace the plugs, and replace the wires (use Hyundai wires only for proer seal and fit.

Lok at you coils too, be aware of them big grey white spots, may give you problems down the road..

Pictures in the link --> https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=9089

Well, it's certaintly is no small block Chevy but you don't have to remove the engine to do it. However, you do have to remove the upper intake manifold (AKA Surge Tank) to access the rear 3 plugs. And while some will reuse the manifold gasket, it's a good idea to replace it. Once the manifold is off then you can access the plugs by removing the coils over each plug.

Here are the instructions for removing the upper intake on a 2.7L Tuburon. While not 100% identical, it gives you the basic understanding of what needs to be done:
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1760


Here are the instructions to doing it on the 3.5L in the Santa Fe:

http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/ecjd005a.gif

REMOVAL1.Remove the air intake hose connected to the throttle body.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/ecjd003b.gif
2.Remove the engine coolant hose and throttle body.
3.Remove the P.C.V. hose and brake booster vacuum hoses.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/ecb9505i.gif
4.Disconnect the vacuum hose connections.
5.Remove the surge tank stay.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/ecbb444e.gif
6.Remove the surge tank.
7.Remove the surge tank and gasket.
http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/kfw3236a.gif


INSTALLATIONTightening torque
Surge tank stay :
15 ~ 20 Nm (150 ~ 200 kg.cm, 11 ~ 14 lb.ft)

http://www.hmaservice.com/data/Passe...G/ecbb444e.gif

Thanks!!!
 

Thanks guys for saving me from cutting the grass this weekend. I think I'll be changing plugs 'n wires on the Santa Fe!
Is it strongly advised to get the parts from Hyunday...or can I get acceptable replacements elsewhere?

By the way...reason for doing this?
In top gear...when giving some gas and NOT downshifting....engine misses....shakes so much you'd think a tire was about to fall off. Also idles a bit crappy. I think it does have about 145K on the original plugs and wires, and I DO see some of that white powder like stuff on the wires, so probably is the culprit.

Minimum --> NGK Platinum as OE equipped... or do yourself a big favor and upgrade to the NGK IRIDIUM... NO regular $2 plugs, NO Bosch, NO gimmick plugs, Just NGK as mentioned earlier.

Wires --> Use the Hyundai OE wire set, best fit and construction, fit right and seal right.

Too much work involved to cut corners with discount parts.

3.5l intake manifold torque spec
 

Changed plugs and wires. Now putting back together. My Chilton's book has the intake manifold torque specs for the 5 bolts and 2 nuts as
120 inch pounds. This seems VERY light I had to lay into it a bit to crack 'em loose, Seems FAR from that tightness going back together.
Can anyone verify this number for me??
Thanks!!

120 inch is 10 lb-ft....

I use torque wrench at 17lb-ft when tightening all the 8mm bolts on the intalke and mounting.

Did you not read the instructions I posted above?

Yes, thanks....I was a bit confused with the terminology. Not sure that the "surge tank" was another word for the intake manifold...or plenum....and then I only guessed that the surge tank "stay" would be the brackets at the rear, and perhaps did not include ALL the mounting bolts in the area of the intake manifold gasket.

Extra Bolt!!
 

Almost done. When removing the bolts for the Surge Tank, I placed them on the ledge up by the windshield wipers.
Now putting everything back together...all hoses, brackets etc are back.
One bolt left over. It's killing me..been looking for 2 hours now where did it go??
Surge tank brackets in the rear...by firewall have two bolts on the passenger side, and 4 on the drivers side.
This bolt is similar to the surge tank bracket bolts (12 mm) but not as long. Has the "7" printed on the head of it like the other manifold bolts.
Other than that....I'm ready to turn the key...but won't yet, with a bolt left over!!
Any ideas??

back to the drawing board
 

Well, it started!
But have to investigate more.
Does not idle nice, and pushing gas has no effect...so that and the
extra bolt....I must have left something unhooked! :confused:

What about the strap for EGR pipe about middle if pipe/manifold??

Make sure you have the brake booster hose installed, along with all the ducting from throttle body to the air filter box.

If you unplugged the connector for the throttle motor, then you need to insert key to ign,,, turn key to "ON", and then back to "OFF" within 2-3 seconds...... wait for throttle motor to cycle and count itself, you may hear click/clunk when blade drop shut... then start engine.

Been a number of instance where plenum gasket installed wrong,,,, Vacuum leak.......

I took it all apart again, and I think you are right...I think it was the clamp for the egr pipe...about middle. But..that doesn't explain the poor performance. I would like to check the spark plug wiring. I'm sure if I had it wrong, one length would have a LOT of excess...but if the front is from left to right...cylinders 2,4,6...which cylinders in the rear do the wires go to (from the plug/coils in front.
Very bizzare...the way it was, it would start right up...idle rough....tough the brake would stall the engine, hit the gas would do nothing. Something must be REALLY hooked wrong, or just left unplugged. Gonna re-assemble again tomorrow.

DID you replace wires ? DID you use OE Hyundai wire set ?

Standing at radiator and looking at engine :




B ====== 1 --- 3 --- 5
E
L
T ====== coil 2, coil 4 , coil 6

----------------radiator --------------------

Yes, I used new wires that I got from Hyundai.
So I see your diagram, but I wanted to verify where
the wire from coil 2,4, and 6 go.
Is it to its' partner on the other side (1,3,5)?
I don't think I could have messed it up, but I want to verify
in the morning.

Look at pic in this topic --> https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=9203

The Hyundai wire set has a #1m #3m and #5 painted on the cord, so theu go where they is numbered, install them the same way they was removed.

You will notice when you get to Bank 2, you will have short length hanging, a medium length, and a long length.. install to the coils accordingly.

OK...I saw the numbers on the wires...so hook 'em as indicated 1,3, and 5..then what is hanging...longest goes to 6, then 4, then 2. I will double check that this is the way I did it.
Thanks!

Looks like 1 goes to 4
3 goes to 6, and 5 goes to 2???

Verify your wires is routed and clipped as shown, the lengths hanging will tell you where they need to be.. I suppose that next 3.5 we get I should take better pic of wires as they come around the bend from the rear..

I made crude drawing as to how the wires is correctly routed from Bank 1 acrohttps://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/a...1&d=1286068662ss top of engine to Bank 2..

I took it all apart, verified the spark plug wiring is correct, and put it back together again. Same result...
But I am thinking I know what I did wrong.
During the first disassembly, I mistakenly took apart the part shown below. I thought it had to be removed to lift off the intake manifold. I think it had spring tension of a little gear inside, and no longer does. I took it apart again to verify.
Do I need to replace this part, or can it be re-sprung?
It is on the top, passenger side of the intake manifold (see pic below) I don't know what the part is called.
http://home.comcast.net/~kd2e/car.JPG

OOOOOP's,,,, You aint supposed to goof with tha part.... Yuo just take the 2 plugs off of it..

That is the motor for the variable induction vavle.. You may end up with code if get real unlucky, and when we get code for that, we replace tha entire piece of intake manifold.. about $500 just for the part (not had a customer pay 1 in long time to know exactly the part cost).. It wont give you idle problem, you really wont notice performance issue either, just a light on and code for Variable intake malf

Could that be the reason why flooring the gas pedal does not effect the idle?
Would one of those plug in computers (to interpret faults) help with what is happening, or should I admit defeat and tow it to Hyundai??

Did you plug the throttle motor in fully ?

Did you re-initialize the throttle plate ?

I assume you have the full air intake duct installed, MAF installed with arrow pointing toward the throttle plate, and the MAF plugged in properly..

Anytime we go from running, do service work,,, it dont run,,, you missed something upon re-assembly.

I tried your earlier suggestion....key off, turn to ign. turn off in 2-3 seconds...then start....Tried it a few times. Is that re-initializing the throttle plate? Not sure where the throttle motor is, or what the MAF is...but I'll look 'em up and check 'em again.
I had the problem, took it all apart..put it back and have same problem...so must be missing the same thing twice. I will give it another look on Friday.

LATEST UPDATE.....
Brought my Santa Fe into the local repair place (not Hyundai, but known good)
Code said it had a bad t p s sensor. (seems strange for it to fail just as I had everything apart...but, who knows?).
They changed it...road test A.O.K...I paid, and went to pick up car last night, and it was same as I left it. New part has to be flashed...or programmed. They think perhaps the programming didn't "take"??? So they will do it again, and try the car after 3-5 hours and see what happens.
Does programming sometimes glitch??

Tell me the actual code (P-xxxx) that was stored...

I know the fellow at this repair facility, so I picked up the car yesterday, and it is back where I started. That is...it runs...now with new plugs and wires. When I initially brought it into Hyundai for a problem, he said the plugs and wires have to be changed before anything. That is what I did. My wife was driving it to work this morning and just came back to get the other car. "Still messed up" she said. When giving it gas ESPECIALLY under heavy load....like accelerating uphill on the highway..It shakes so much, you'd think a wheel was falling off. Not alignment, cuz it only does it with acceleration...not coasting. Feels like the engine is running on 3 plugs..even rear view mirror image shakes like mad. Around town, not bad...until you are in top gear and try to go a bit faster. I'll bring it back to Hyunday, and say..."well...now the plugs and wires are new" ....and TPS for that matter!!

Any update yet?

No update yet. Car is defunct sitting in the driveway. Hopefully I will get a chance to bring it in this week. I'll post an update when I do.
Thanks!!!

AN UPDATE THIS MORNING.
Brought the car in, and the mechanic drove it around....the Santa Fe proceeded to shake....as expected.
Mechanic said "It's not the engine at all...the engine is fine. The problem is a drive line vibration".
Anyone want to start taking guesses what they might find?
He said could be an axle, could be a drive shaft, could be a cv joint, could even be a transmission (but it shifts fine, so less likely).
Are there any Santa Fe "been there, done that" common failures that relate to vibration with speed...but only when gas is applied? Don't have to floor it, just a slight bit of gas while moving along at 40 or so and up...and it will shake.
Thanks!!!!

I haven't had that issue with my Hyundai, but I had a bad shake on my '92 Ford Escort(Mazda) about ten years ago. It would shake really bad only when I went over 40 MPH. Turned out that the all the bushings that the steering rack bolt to were gone and the steering rack, though attached, wasn't firmly mounted causing the shake. Removing that rack was not a fun job, it wasn't a cheap fix either. I had to buy a new rack if memory serves, but I did the job myself saving labor charges.

I would also check the engine and tranny mounts as well. I've had issues with that as well on the same car(as above), but my case only the engine would shake, not the whole car.