2016 Axle removal
 

Hi,

I'm replacing the RH axle in my 2016 Sonata Hybrid Limited. I watched all the YouTube videos, But I cannot get the old axle out of the transmission.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...e8557c8bdd.jpg

I removed the transmission "support" to get more working room around the CV joint, but there is still not a lot. The photo doesn't do it justice. The design of the transmission doesn't allow a lot of access to when the shaft enters the transmission. I don't have a CV/Axle popper fork. I hate to buy one because of the limited access. It might be a waste of money. I've sprayed it with penetrating oil. I've gotten various small bars and screwdrivers behind the CV and pushed with my foot while pulling the axle with my hands. No luck. To pry out a shaft you really want to be prying in opposite sides of the shaft, but that's not possible here.

Does anyone have any knowledge or suggestions of other things to try?

Thanks,

Gene

There is a retaining ring that holds the joint onto the trans. It is difficult to remove the joint without the proper tool. See if you can rent one.

Yep, I had a new axle so I knew it was the retaining ring. It really holds it in there. The 17" pry bar from Harbor Freight (The longest in the $8 set of 3) worked. Laying under the car I pushed the pry bar with my foot while I pulled on the axle with both hands. Jack stands plus tires under the car.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hyu...6fee64385e.jpg

That retaining ring makes putting the new axle in a bit tough as well. Couldn't do that by myself. In the end I lay under the car holding the axle and making sure the splines were aligned. Held the outer CV joint straight as well. My son-in-law held a scrap 2x4 over the end of the axle and tapped it in with a 5lb hammer.

Best,

Gene

Glad you managed to get the job done. Sometimes we put a little grease on the end with the ring so it will go in easier.

Thank you for the update.

I can't find a torques spec for the lower ball joint. Does anyone know that?

TRQ video says 82 ft-lbs so I'm going with that. Torquing everything with the suspension loaded.

Make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead.

@hanky - I took the car for a test drive yesterday evening and after it warmed up (20-30 minutes of driving), it developed a pretty bad vibration/shake. It comes and goes, at different speeds from just under 40 up to 75. Tapping the brake sometimes stops it. Cutting the steering wheel back and forth sometimes stops it. Only seems to happen on relatively straight roads. I put the car back up on jack stands this morning and checked everything I did. I had torqued everything and put alignment marks on the nuts and bolts. Nothing moved. The CV joints don't seem to have any play in them.

I was trying to keep the cost down and bought the axle on Ebay from a salvage yard. I called them before buying it and they said it was low miles, but "couldn't say how many". In the photo looked new. The axle that showed up did look new and was in a box that originated from Korea.

So at this point my two thoughts are:
1) I needed to grease the splines before I inserted it into the transmission. Perhaps because I didn't, and it isn't floating free, this is causing vibrations. ??????
2) The axle I bought is a piece of junk.

Do you think it's worth my time to pull the axle and grease the splines?

Thanks,

Gene

If you didn't have the problem before changing parts, good chance other part is faulty When tightening the axle nut , did you use a new nut as you are supposed to do ?

What about the wheel nuts? Is hub assy on completely?

I didn't have the problem before. I replaced the old one because the inner CV spewed all its grease. I suspect it was accidentally damaged when the engine was replaced.

Yes, used a new nut and torqued it to 210 ft-lbs. Lug nuts are torqued to 90 ft-lbs. I can't make anything move by pushing or pulling on the wheel.

What do think about no grease on the axle splines that go into the transmission?