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Old 07-07-2017, 05:07 PM
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Location: Houston, TX
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I am preparing to replace driver's side lower suspension arm due to a squeaking strut fork bushing and I will be replacing the front disc brake pads as they are beginning to squeak when stopping from low speeds.
I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS I bought used in January 2016. It has about 179K miles on it but it appears to be mainly highway miles; car is in remarkably good condition.
I was looking for information about replacing the lower shock fork bushing in the control arm and that is how I found the forum. I haven't been able to find a source for the bushing so I just bought the complete control arm from MOOG for $117.
I will likely be asking questions if I cannot find answers or self explanatory pictures.

JPaulV
 
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:51 PM
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Check videos on youtube
They may not be exactly your vehicle but it will give you a better idea of what is involved

Lower suspension arm?
Do you mean the lower control arm with the ball joint to the wheel hub assembly?
Strut fork bushing?
The struts usually attach to the wheel hub on the top side?

If it is the lower control arm bushings then usually replace the whole lower control arm
If you are doing it yourself then be aware that those bolts
that hold in the lower control arm can be very difficult to remove
And you don't want to round off those heads
 
  #3  
Old 07-08-2017, 01:01 AM
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Lower control arm is the same as lower suspension arm or front suspension lower arm. The strut as Hyundai calls it attaches to the lower control arm just to the inside of the lower ball joint. The attachment is through a 2-prong fork with the drive shaft going through the fork to the front hub. The fork straddles the lower suspension arm and is mounted with a bolt through a steel and rubber bushing. THe 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS does not have the traditional McPherson strut, but an upper and lower control arm joined by a steering knuckle. The hub bearing & hub are attached to the steering knuckle (not spindle). Spindles are used on the front of Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) cars with individual inner and outer tapered roller bearings running between the whell hub and the spindle. The bearing assembly is held on by a washer and nut on the outer end of the spindle, then covered by a domed dust cap.
I was looking for this particular bushing as I have seen exploded drawings of the front suspension parts and an individual bushing is shown for this location on the lower control arm.
I ended up purchasing the entire new lower control arm for $117 from MOOG. It seems easy enough to take off and replace with new parts. Also purchased a new lower ball joint so I don't have to screw around with getting the old one off.
 
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2017, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JPaulV
I ended up purchasing the entire new lower control arm for $117 from MOOG. It seems easy enough to take off and replace with new parts. Also purchased a new lower ball joint so I don't have to screw around with getting the old one off.
New lower control arms come with ball joint
And if you intend on replacing just the ball joint then you would still have to remove old one
You seem to make up your own terminology but you understand the basics
What I don't know is if you have any idea how hard it can be to do this?
Especially if one lives in the salt belt.

Hopefully, you'll be the lucky one and have power tools that can help
Good luck
 
  #5  
Old 07-09-2017, 02:35 AM
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The control arm I ordered does not come with a ball joint. The vehicle I am working on was originally sold in and has resided in the Austin and Houston areas of Texas. There is little rust on anything under the car. The original plating on the bolt heads and nuts is still there. I have been working on, building, and restoring primarily automobiles since 1966. The shop manual indicates that if the ball joint and control arm is being replaced you do not need to remove the old ball joint from the old arm, unless you just want the exercise. I am not making up terminology. Automotive terms are descriptive in nature and in some cases come from the preceeding technology of the horse-drawn wagon. But lower control arm and lower suspension arm are accurate forms of the terminology. Go look at a Motor Manual from 1950 and read the terminology for the front and rear suspension parts.
I moved to Texas in 1981. Prior to that I was born, lived and worked in New York's Mid-Hudson Valley so I know what corrosion is and where you find it on cars. Just don't have that problem in SE Texas unless you drive on the beaches a lot.
 
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