obd 2 p0011
 

can anyone help? I have a 06 sonata w/59000 mi. trouble code p0011 on the scanner. it starts fine and runs fine. does it just have a bad sensor? it was parked for the last 5 months, could it have anything to do with low octane gas, because it is old? and if the sensor where is it located? any help would be appreciated. thank you.

P0011 is: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced

It means the camshaft position sensor has determined that the camshaft is out of timing with the crankshaft sensor. The extreme likelyhood, since your car has 59K, is that your timing belt is so stretched out that the cam is not in time with the crank properly. Since your are supposed change the timing belt at 60K anyway, then I would suggest doing so... soon.

If you told me your car only has 30K with this trouble code, I would tell you to remove the top of the timing belt cover and do an inspection and an adjustment ( a 10 minute job).

Timing belts jobs cost anywhere from $200 to $1000, depending on where you take it, and what other work you have done. It's a good idea to change the outer drive belts when you do this, since they must be removed anyway and also need changing. A lot of shops will try to talk you into also doing the water pump, the tension pulley, and the seals, but I wouldn't do all that. Just have the timing belt done, the outer drive belts, do a coolant flush and an oil change.

If you really want it done correctly and maintain the warranty, just call around to you local Hyundai dealers and ask them the cost of the 60k service. They'll do the necessary service and maintain the warranty.

is this a big job to do myself? I did it on a toyota 22re years ago, pretty much the same?

If you've done one before, then you know what's involved. Especially Toyota, I've found Toyota to be a biotch because they put too many little bolts everywhere that rust and brake. I haven't done my Hyundai yet, but it doesn't look too hard. The only hard thing is the tensioner is not spring loaded, you have to set it by hand to the correct tightness, but even that is not too difficult. You just need 5mm of deflection on the belt when you are done when you press with your finger (not too hard).

garret - The only problem with jsinton's logic on this matter is that the 06 Sonata, regardless of engine, does not have a timing belt. Both the Theta II I4 and Lambda V6 have timing chains, and a chain stretched far enough to cause a timing issue would make it presence well know. Both engines do possess Continuously Variable Valve Timing (CVVT), which is a ECU controlled system that advances or retards the intake camshaft to meet power requirements at speed while minimizing emissions. One of the sensors involved or the main CVVT mechanism mounted on the end of the camshaft could be failing or have failed. Under 60,000 miles, this should be a warranty repair. I'd get the car to a Hyundai dealership ASAP.

With the code you have then it is likly a CVVT problem. Also could be a plugged up oil control valve. do you change your oil on time? is is sludged? It is under warranty take it in.

I have the same problem with my 06 Sonata I4. At first, starting about 3 months ago the check engine light came on intermittently. It would come on for a few days then go out for a day or two, then it would come on again for a few days. This went on for about two months. I then changed the oil and a couple of days later the light went out. The light stayed off for about a month. I thought the problem was solved. Unfortunately, the light just came back on. It was on for about 6 days, went out for 2 days, now it's on again.
If the problem is clogged or plugged up oil control valve or other bad oil problem, what is the fix? What could I do? The car is no longer under warranty.

5yr // 60,000 warranty
 

Oil control valve concern.... put a bunch in the 4cylinders, have you had the intake gasket crack yet for misfire or lean code ??

Put a few control valves in either bank of the V6 also.

Not an uncommon concern

The only code that showed was P0011.
If the oil control valve was bad, would the light be intermittent? Some have suggested that bad oil or a piece of oil sludge could be clogging something up. What is your opinion on that?

PCM is looking for Desired value (what the PCM is trying to cycle the oil control valve) and the Target value (where the cam is actually).. you can visual these values in the "CURRENT DATA" screen on the GDS.

The first goofy issue I had with one, Tech assist said to pull the control valve, and look for specs of metal from head machining/assembly.

New car with oil that been change regular, and the dipstick ang plate under the oil fill cap is clean, I'm not too concerned with "sludge" in the oil control screen.

I have an '08 Sonata 4 cyl. with 73,000 miles and the check engine light came on the other day. Had it checked and code P0011 came up. The person at autozone, seeming not too sure of herself said this meant it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I took it to a mechanic and they said it'd take a long time to order it. So i said hold off (till i researched more) and had the oil changed.

Driving home after the oil change 5 miles down the road my check engine light went off.

MY CONCERNS:

1. After doing research i find that code P0011 given for my car doesn't translate to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (which is actually P0335.)

2. Engine light being off now, do I wait a couple of days or possibly months to deal with this further and go about my business or do I act now? (Commentors, thanks ahead of time & please note the 08 Sonata has a timing chain, not belt.)

P-0011 has ended up being an oil control valve replacement on the 2.4 THETA.. You can do it yourself, just move vac line off intake, remove oil temo sensor so you can get at bolt holding OCV in head.. you'll need long extension and a TORX bit to remove the bolt.. 15 minute job..

OCV has new part number, and is shorter than the original part... also keep the oil change regular to prevent oil from clogging the filter for the OCV system.

I have a 2006 GLS 6V Sonata with 118,000 miles. I just got the P0011 " intake camshaft Position Timing"
Error.

Can I just replace the camshaft sensor or might this be something else. About the same time the check engine light came on I noticed that the car would idel funny. It would not stay as a constant RPM and when no gas was applied it would fluctuate about 100-250 rpms.

Check Engine Light P0011
 

An Accounting of the last Month and a half. Hyundai Sonata 2008 167k, 2.4 liter. You'll see I did some tune up stuff with it also. I just need that light to go off so I can bring it for inspection. After the throttle body the car has been running well. After I cleaned the MAF sensor the car has been running great.

starts at July 31st.
1. Car went into limp mode. Regardless of if you stepped on the gas. drive by wire; I cleared the code, and tried to have the car relearn the throttle position by 1 click at a time turning of the ignition, waiting a minute in between each click. Probably the same as blowing into the old nintendo cartridges...but hey it worked. Car started, drove it home.

2. Replaced the throttle body. Can't just replace the solenoid, used, amazon prime day. Code went away, idle seemed ok.

3. two days later, MAF error code. Apparently, I used too much "armor-all" taking the airbox apart and some dripped in. I cleaned the sensor with spray, reset the code.

4. Received P0011. Um...ok...one code at a time I guess. Asked my wife if I can buy a new-old Sonata, big NO on that one. I got an oil change and replaced the Crank position sensor. Replaced the Battery, because....well, it was time, why not, maybe there is a weird voltage when starting the car throwing false errors. reset the codes.

5. Drove into a ditch after rear tire blew out. (I think someone knifed the rear tire, the sidewall just split) had bodywork done to the car on the passanger side. New door skins, handles, mirror, matched paint. They turned the Airbag light off, and it hasn't come back. Now just the TPS light from not getting the Summer Tires keyed. (the winter were)

6. Replaced headlights to make the car look fancy. Clay barred the exterior.
Now the car looks new. Check engine light comes back P0011. :mad: Have to adjust the light to point straight, I'll try that tonight. (Weird, no adjustment screw so to speak, kinda line'em up and tighten.

7. Just replaced spark plugs with fancy iridium ones. Replaced oil temp sensor and intake Oil control valve. I couldn't find the exhaust side one. Plus I'm running out of gas myself, I need like a coffee or something.

I'm going to clear the code tonight, drive for a day or two and see if the code comes back. Any thoughts? Any cheap easy fixes I can try?

P0011 is a DTC code for bad cam shaft timing
Can be caused by the variable valve timing and/or oil control valve
Search for you tube video

Light came back.
 

Ok, well the light came back. As I said with my previous post. I already have changed the Oil Control Valve. And I think, I have a Theta 2.4 FF engine that doesn't have an exhaust side OCV.

I looked at the plugs I pulled from the car.

1st plug. Totally fine. Probably would run another 60k.
2nd,3rd,4th plug are white on the tip, and the ceramic is discolored.

They are identical plugs and I changed them all at 90k.
the manual says there can be a couple of reasons for this.
1. Wrong heat range of plug. But if that was the case, they'd all be burned.
XX

2. Cooling system problems. I haven't noticed the car overheating or anything like that. I had the radiator flushed and refilled last winter.
XX

3. Intake manifold leak. Possible I suppose, but it doesn't idle rough or anything. I'll spray while running and see if the idle changes, but I doubt it.
Possible.

4. Lean fuel mixture. I had the injectors serviced about 6 months ago, and there is no lack of power.
XX

5. Sticking valves. I have no loss of power...but I do hear tic tic tic from the valves. I can try sea foam or gunk out and see if it clears it up. This may clear up P0011 but i'm doubtful and this may be a whole separate problem. If the spring is weak on a few lifters I'm f#@$ed. I'm pretty good at maintenance stuff, but that I'd have to take to a mechanic. A used engine would probably be cheaper. (although that might be a whole mess of new problems.)
Possible...God help me.

6. Over-advanced engine timing. Well that's the code I'm getting. But it's an electronic ignition, I can't just rotate a distributor. There are parts to swap like the ECU or Ignition condenser. Since I already replaced the OCV, I may have to pull the valve cover off and see what's going on. I still may have to take it in at this point.
Most Likely

The light is off
 

Ok. I haven't had time to really check on things.

I asked my friend at work who owned a shop and he suggested a few things.
First he said that my methodology was correct. And chances are it could be the Oil Control Valve. But after that you need to take the valve cover off and really look to see if the cam sprockets are lined up.

He mentioned the chain guides could have shifted or the tensioner weak so that it may have enough give to change the timing enough to throw a code. He said I should check for vacuum leaks first. It may have nothing to do with the code, but the car is older.

My Father inlaw suggested running the car in 2nd gear for a little while to see if the cam is stuck and maybe the action of it trying to go back and forth might free it up.

So I haven't had time to look under the valve cover. Or check for leaks yet, but I did run the car in 2nd gear for like 15 minutes about two days ago.

And the next day the CEL went off. So I'm going to get it inspected. I'm now curious to take the valve cover off anyway, because I really didn't fix anything, just to check what my friend mentioned.

Off for a while.
 

So it's been about a month and the light is off.

I cleared it using a different reader, and figured I'd take it in and get the car inspected.

I did, I told the mechanic everything I did. He checked it and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Did the inspection and said come back if anything wasn't working.

The light never came back. :)

did the code ever come back?

I kept getting codes P011 & P014 which says camshaft sensors position A & B. After doing a lot of looking online it seemed the ocv was usually the main issue. Easy to replace & so are the camshaft sensors so I replaced all of them. Replaced the coils & spark plugs also. Didn’t change anything. Still kept getting the codes & didn’t have much power, had to limp up hills. I had just bought the car from someone who had kept up on oil changes normally but it was 1500 miles past due when I bought it & had sat most of the winter so I changed the oil right away the next day. Well after all of that stuff I did & still didn’t fix the problem, I decided to run some high mileage seafoam in my crankcase & drove around for about 60 miles. Went home & changed the oil again even though the current oil only had about 200 miles on it. I used a Hyundai oil filter also which I had read in rare instances where using other filters for some reason caused problems. Cleared the codes & went for a drive. I instantly felt the difference. Had power back, didn’t have to floor it to make up hills. Been about 300 miles so far & still no issues. Don’t know if there was some sludge causing issues, if it was the oil filter, or maybe a combination but that was what fixed mine. The plugs needed changed anyways but I wasted quite a bit of money & swearing changing those sensors for no reason. Lol.