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POO16 Check Engine Light Problem

Old 10-13-2009, 02:08 PM
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Default POO16 Check Engine Light Problem

I have a 2006 sonata 3.3L.

P0016 Code popped up when hooked up to a computer.I had all the cam/crank shaft sensors replaced just to be sure. A couple of weeks later the check engine light came back on for the same reason. I took the car back to the dealer and they said its the oil drive actuator. what is an oil drive actuator? I declined the service cause it was way too much ($500) If theres anybody out there whom can help I'd appreciate it. thnx. BTW the car is not under warranty anymore.
Old 01-10-2010, 12:21 AM
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Default POO16 Check Engine Light Problem Solution

The P0016 code is a discrepancy between the camshaft and crankshaft timing. This code is thrown for a few reasons. Go through this diagnostic procedure and you will probably identify the problem:

1. Check your timing belt. Install a compression tester to cyl #1 (furthest cyl left when looking at the engine from the front) and bar the engine over. When you begin to develop compression on the guage, you know you are approaching TDC. Bar over until the mark is lined up with "T" on the lower timing belt cover timing marks and stop. Then, pull the upper belt cover (four sleeved M6 bolts/10mm heads) and ensure that you can see the red timing mark through the hole at 12 o'clock on the camshaft gear.

If you can see red, then you are close on the timing. However, if you have removed the camshaft gear recently or replaced the timing belt recently, you need to check that the locator pin on the camshaft gear is not bent. This can cause you to be 1/2 a tooth off, and can lead to catastrophic engine failure if the pin snaps.

Loosen the timing belt and remove the bolt holding the camshaft gear and inspect it to ensure it is straight. If it is straight, then reassemble. If it is bent, that is your problem. Replace the pin and clear codes. The pin bends easily when you torque either the camshaft gear or balancer pulley.

If the pin is OK or you have not changed the timing belt, removed the cam gear or balancer pulley, then check....

2. The Oil Control Valve. All Huyndai engines from 2004 on have CVVT (constant variable valve timing). The oil control valve is located on the front of the engine just above the temp. sending unit. Pull the OCV and let it cool to room temp. Once it is cool, take your fluke meter and test resistance across the two pins. It should read from 6.7 ohms to 7.9 ohms. If it reads outside of those specs, replace it. If it passes the resistance test, then take your test leads and connect it to your battery (not polar specific). If the valve fails to engage, then replace it. This should cost about $160-$180 and is easily removed as it is only held in by one M6/10mm bolt. Pull straight out once bolt is removed and electrical connector is removed. If it passes both tests, then reinstall it.

Between the timing and OCV, you should find the problem. If you don't, then check the connection to the OCV. If it is damaged, then you will need to replace the connector.

If your ECM is throwing the P0016 code, than the above steps will most likely expose the problem. It should either be a timing belt allignment issue, a bent locator pin, or a bad OCV.

Good Luck!!


Last edited by jrpentolino; 01-10-2010 at 12:23 AM.
Old 12-11-2010, 03:21 PM
HPL is offline
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Default P0016 DTC and OCV

My car is a 2006 Sonata 2.4L and is having similar problems as described above. I am getting the P0016 DTC. The dealership is not covering the work and wants to charge me a grand to fix the problem. Has anyone changed the OCV themselves?

Last edited by HPL; 12-11-2010 at 03:31 PM. Reason: redundant
Old 12-11-2010, 05:12 PM
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2.4L oil control valve is $51 retail at our dealer... not hard to replace, just need to get oil temp sensor out of way to slide the oil control valve out, and slide vent hose off the intake manifold..... 30 minute job at worst.

Also note that the replacement 2.4 oil control valve is a new style part.. been issues through the years with the valve in the 2.4L

Also be aware of intake gasket leak at cylinder #1, common problem with 2006 and some 2007,,, comes in with lumpy idle or 2 lean codes stored.

To the fella that states "check timing belt" --- 3.3 is a chain motor
Old 12-11-2010, 09:54 PM
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Great Post! Thanks for the information sbr

oh yea and would a intake gasket leak be very noticeable by the cylinder?

thanks again

Last edited by HPL; 12-12-2010 at 12:21 AM.
Old 12-12-2010, 09:33 AM
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Gasket leak can be found with a small spritz of carb spray.. put straw between the 1 & 2 runner where it meet the head with straw pointing more toward #1, and tricke as shot of spray for a couple seconds and see if engine changes character,,, DONT BLAST the spray, you just want to spritz/dribble it out so leak can grab the chemical.

Pics show gasket as it sits on cylinder head as you staning there looking at intake/head..

Attached Thumbnails POO16 Check Engine Light Problem-pict0733.jpg   POO16 Check Engine Light Problem-pict0734.jpg   POO16 Check Engine Light Problem-pict0735.jpg  
Old 01-02-2011, 01:14 PM
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man what do I have to disconnect to get at this gasket to check for a leak
Old 04-28-2016, 12:52 PM
eko is offline
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i have same code p0016 on 2002 hyundai xg350, i had replace crank sensor and cam sensor, and check the timing, but no luck
Old 04-12-2018, 06:37 PM
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Okay, I have a 2006 Accent with the 1.6. At 124.4k miles, my timing belt decided to lose about a dozen teeth at a traffic light. I tried to restart it, but could hear that something was very wrong. No grinding or metal on metal sounds, but I could tell that part of the engine wasn't working. I called AAA, and had it towed to a recommended (10% off) mechanic. The next day, I get the phone call telling me that my timing belt was shot, and there is a possibility of further engine damage. To find out, it's going to be $500 to replace the belt, and we'll see from there. I do the math; $500 to possibly fix this or $3-4k to replace the car. Okay, I'll gamble.

They replaced the timing belt, and there doesn't sound like there is any real engine damage. I did have the check engine light continue and it's running like crap. Hard starts, no acceleration, and no power. I did my homework, and was hopeful about it being 1 of 3 parts. Thank you Amazon. OEM parts for 1/3 the price of the local parts store. The Crankshaft Position Sensor and Oil Control Solenoid came in first, but didn't fix it. The Camshaft Position Sensor came in today, and I am happy to report that all is well again.

I still have 1k miles left on my engine oil, but I am going to do a drain and flush on it this weekend, just in case there are metal shavings floating around.

I hope this helps someone else.

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