Here's a link discussing P1193 as related to sensor grounds and the cam sensor mounting plate:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index....42720&hl=P1193

Very last post of this link discusses ground short issues on an XG relative to sensors:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index....9&#entry281439

What happens if you unplug the MAF:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t25568...-guiadance.htm

 

Still waiting on a TB, however I am just going to toss this idea in the air. I was sitting around today thinking and this came to mind. That injector 5 wiring, I can almost put my finger to it that the two wires are probably melted together. So, if they were, that could cause a fault in the injector power/ground circuit and since the injectors share the same ground curcuit, therefor, all six injectors may not have injector pulse. That could maybe explain why when I pulled those old plugs out, they were just black from exhaust and not wet with fuel from cranking on it so much. Also could maybe explain why I have all these air/fuel metering DTCs. Maybe, just maybe there is not anything wrong with the ETS system, maybe its just in limp mode because there is not enough fuel and too much air entering? Could I be thinking correctly here and this could be the problem the whole time possibly? Or could that not even cause the ETS, MAF, TPS or air/fuel meter DTC's?

 

Even if only those two injectors were affected, I think that would be enough to trigger the faults you are experiencing. The P1193 code is non-descript, it basically says the "something" is wrong so limp-home mode is activated. What happens if you clean up the injector grounds?

 

I think all the injectors are affected, they all share that same ground according to Alldatas schematic. I am going to swing down to her house tomorrow evening and crank a little bit on it, pull a plug and see if it is wet with fuel, if not, I know its fuel related now, and probably more than likely not throttle body, or ETS related rather. I also have an injector probe, so if I have someone crank on it, I can probe the actual injector to see if it is pulsing or not...will report back tomorrow night.

 

Okay update...went down to the car yesterday, tried starting nothing. Used me injector probe, basically a noid light, and all injectors are pulsing okay. I took a connector off of one of the front injectors and clipped in a headlamp bulb with two wires on it. Had someone crank the engine, and the bulb would pulse as well, however I did notice, that if I grounded the ground circuit to the valve cover, the bulb would get alot brighter. The car did start like it sometimes does, but ran like crap. So, for giggles, I put the original throttle body back on, and it cranks now and sounds like it is not even hitting on any cylinders. Before with the throttle body on that I got from the junk yard that the ETS connector is almost broken on, it would almost start. So, brings me to wonder if indeed it is the ETS or something.

I am almost to the point of just having my sister bring this piece to the Hyundai dealer to find out what the problem is. Nothing is really making sense at this point, haha!

 

Sorry to hear this. Better luck with the dealership. Let us know what they find.

 

Finally an update on my sisters XG. Had it towed to the dealer and a week later I get a call. They said cylinder number 6 has no compression. They wanted my sister to authorize $1500.00 to tear down the motor to find out the cause. I told them no, obviously in my opinion, there is a mechanical failure in the engine, therefor, should be covered under Hyundai's 100k mile powertrain warranty. Then the service adviser went on to tell me her warranty could be void since her car has 78k on it and the timing belt was not changed at 60k. Well if it were a timing belt issue that caused this compression problem, it would have affected more than one cylinder. I work at a dealer, I am not that stupid, haha. I said it says nothing in her owners manual about this being a Hyundai requirement, just a maintenence schedule recommendation. Then he proceeded to tell her oil looks dark and that could cause a failure. Great, when oil runs through an engine for awile, it gets dirty and dark. So, I aurgued with this guy for about 30 mins and then just told him I wuld get back to him. He also mentioned it was going to be a problem since there was a title change in 2008. Well, shouldnt be a problem, the vehicle was titled in both my sisters name and my dads name, both were on the deed. Then in 08, when she paid the car off, they put it in her name only. Should not matter since its been in her name the whole time technically. So, basically sounds like they are trying to NOT warranty whatever the problem is. So if it become a problem, I will call their warranty rep and Hyundai myself if I need to.

On a side note, know of any issues out there causing no compression on only one cylinder?

 

Your sister = SOL

Sorry but if the belt went you could have very easily bent (or broken) a valve in one (or more) cylinders. If a valve is bent or broken on one cylinder then that would cause no compression.

Bottom line: if the belt went and your sister didn't change it at 60K when she was supposed to, she just voided her warranty. All the whining and crying in the world won't change the fact that it is NOT Hyundai's fault; it's your sisters for not doing the required maintenance.

 

from my experience, a timing belt doesn't partially break. if i read the posts correctly, there was a rough running condition with the used throttle assembly, but a no start with the original one. a timing belt wouldn't exhibit these problems. a timing belt also (generally) does not 'jump' a tooth, either, in normal operation, and, if it *did*, it would still run. believe me, i have had my share of misaligned hyundai/mitsu/kia timing belts to know this would not be my first guess.

didn't i see a post about fuel *in* the throttlebody?? excuse me, but i think that might be an issue.

it is possible the #6 injector could be held open longer, or some other malfunction (like a fuel pressure regulator) that went south that fuel washed the engine. has anyone checked that?? perhaps the fuel took out the throttlebody?? (i cannot say for sure, but gasoline is an excellent solvent)

to the op, if you work at a dealership, do you have access to a power graphing meter?? if so, and there is nothing the is broken (like a fuel pressure regulator or evap purge system malfunction) that would be allowing for extra fuel to come in unmetered, then you will need something like that to scope the injector pattern. you can cut the fuel off to prevent any fuel saturation to the oil (which has probably happened at this point anyway) you will still get a good pattern witht he engine cranking.

as for the 100k warranty, it is transferrable to the immediate family last i knew, so even if she wasn't on the original title, it should still qualify. a timing belt would only void the warranty if it broke due to lack of maintenance. (that being said, these engines do not take too kindly to piston/valve interference, so i would get it done one the thing is running again)

speaking of timing belts, my 05 tucson states 60k t-belt replacement, except for california spec. i called the dealer and the parts manager stated there was no different part number for a california spec vehicle, they were all the same. hmmmm. looks like 90k is my magic #, which should be in about 6-8 weeks. (sorry, i digress....)

anyway, i am just trying to be helpful. i hope that i am.


df

 

I understand that. But the problem is not a broken belt, I can almost put money on that. I have seen tons of broken belts, and usually causes issues with more than one cylinder. Also, if the belt was actually broken, the vehicle would have never started when I tinkered with it and ran in limp mode, it would have never started at all and all cylinders would have no compression. What I am saying is that the adviser is saying that since she did not replace it at the 60k interval, it voided her warranty which is a crock of BS.

I hapened to find a bulletin on Alldata that shows that some 2004 XG and SantaFe's had a problem with the engine block cracking on the #6 cylinder wall only, and could affect little to no compression, coolant consumption, overheating, etc.

Lets hope this is the issue and gets a free new long block

I find it hard to believe that one thing could cause failure on one cylinder only, meaning bent valves etc, unless something fell into the cylinder 6 and caused that, but I HIGHLY doubt it.