Washer motor test and wire test???
#1
Washer motor test and wire test???
Hey guys,
The wifes' 2003 SF..2.7, the wiper washer stopped working. I took the washer container out with the motor attached.
On the motor connector, there is 3 pins, in a triangle configuration. I would like to do a test on the motor with a 12v lead, but am not sure I am touching the correct pins to make the pump run, or if I need to touch 2 and 1....you get the idea.
I also want to run a volt test on the harness/wire/connector when the lever is pulled to activate. Which if the 3 leads, etc here also (?).
FYI, fuse looks good, wipers are still running fine, so I am leaning towards the pump motor being bad, but have also seen on here about the column lever switch being bad. I'll go there if I can verify the pump is ok or not first.
Appreciate any info!!
The wifes' 2003 SF..2.7, the wiper washer stopped working. I took the washer container out with the motor attached.
On the motor connector, there is 3 pins, in a triangle configuration. I would like to do a test on the motor with a 12v lead, but am not sure I am touching the correct pins to make the pump run, or if I need to touch 2 and 1....you get the idea.
I also want to run a volt test on the harness/wire/connector when the lever is pulled to activate. Which if the 3 leads, etc here also (?).
FYI, fuse looks good, wipers are still running fine, so I am leaning towards the pump motor being bad, but have also seen on here about the column lever switch being bad. I'll go there if I can verify the pump is ok or not first.
Appreciate any info!!
#2
Pump is likely at fault.. I just replaced 1 a week or so ago, the electrical inside the square portion was full of brown (rust)..
Pumps is high moving item here.
Pin 1 (orange) is ground
Pin 2 (pink) is constant 12v +
Put you a volt meter at those 2 terminals and have assistant hit the wash button.. if you show source voltage, switch and lines is good, replace pump.
Pumps is high moving item here.
Pin 1 (orange) is ground
Pin 2 (pink) is constant 12v +
Put you a volt meter at those 2 terminals and have assistant hit the wash button.. if you show source voltage, switch and lines is good, replace pump.
#3
Pump is likely at fault.. I just replaced 1 a week or so ago, the electrical inside the square portion was full of brown (rust)..
Pumps is high moving item here.
Pin 1 (orange) is ground
Pin 2 (pink) is constant 12v +
Put you a volt meter at those 2 terminals and have assistant hit the wash button.. if you show source voltage, switch and lines is good, replace pump.
Pumps is high moving item here.
Pin 1 (orange) is ground
Pin 2 (pink) is constant 12v +
Put you a volt meter at those 2 terminals and have assistant hit the wash button.. if you show source voltage, switch and lines is good, replace pump.
#4
Looks like it is the pump for sure. I am getting voltage off the switch, etc.
Anyone have a good source for a washer motor replacement? I have seem some off market ones, priced good, but not completely sure it will work 100% I have also seen a new, OEM replacement pump, but it is 90-100 after shipping. Holy crap!
Would like to stay with OEM, but would like to find a new one for less than $90.
Any links would be of help.
Anyone have a good source for a washer motor replacement? I have seem some off market ones, priced good, but not completely sure it will work 100% I have also seen a new, OEM replacement pump, but it is 90-100 after shipping. Holy crap!
Would like to stay with OEM, but would like to find a new one for less than $90.
Any links would be of help.
#6
Windshield Fluid Washer Pump
Use this info at your own risk:
Had similar problem with 2003 Santa Fe. The windshield fluid was not being sprayed out. Checked the fuse; which was OK. Finally took out the Washer Pump. This “washer pump” part number 98510-26100 has a dual (rear and front windshield) outlet. No retailer or online retailer carry this part (dual outlet) as of Jul 2011. The dealer price is $75. I thought if I was going to install the new washer pump from the dealer what the heck just open the pump. I carefully open up the seal on the bottom of the pump. Be careful the pump has small fly wheel on the shaft of the motor and a small rectangle white plastic piece that separates the rear and the front fluid shoot out from the pump. They fall out as you open the seal. Make sure to save those parts. After opening the seal I gave the pump a good rinse with iso-propyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and removed all the junk and debris that came out. After drying it for 15 minutes I attached the electric connector and the pump motor started functioning (without the fluid hoses attached). You need helper to activate the windshield fluid lever while you hold and check the washer pump.
The tricky part is putting the seal back. Put the fly wheel and the plastic separator back in the pump. There are two rings on the seal cover. The inner and outer rings. In order to have a tight seal I used super glue gel on the “inner ring” of the seal and use some on the outer ring. Make sure the super glue does not get to the moving parts of the pump. Carefully put the seal cover back on the pump and use some string to create a pressure between the pump and seal cover. Let the glue dry up completely. Put the pump back and fluid in the reservoir (1/3 of gallon for testing purpose it takes 1 Gallon to fill up completely) and test the functioning of the pump. Check for any leaks and if OK assemble back the system.
Had similar problem with 2003 Santa Fe. The windshield fluid was not being sprayed out. Checked the fuse; which was OK. Finally took out the Washer Pump. This “washer pump” part number 98510-26100 has a dual (rear and front windshield) outlet. No retailer or online retailer carry this part (dual outlet) as of Jul 2011. The dealer price is $75. I thought if I was going to install the new washer pump from the dealer what the heck just open the pump. I carefully open up the seal on the bottom of the pump. Be careful the pump has small fly wheel on the shaft of the motor and a small rectangle white plastic piece that separates the rear and the front fluid shoot out from the pump. They fall out as you open the seal. Make sure to save those parts. After opening the seal I gave the pump a good rinse with iso-propyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and removed all the junk and debris that came out. After drying it for 15 minutes I attached the electric connector and the pump motor started functioning (without the fluid hoses attached). You need helper to activate the windshield fluid lever while you hold and check the washer pump.
The tricky part is putting the seal back. Put the fly wheel and the plastic separator back in the pump. There are two rings on the seal cover. The inner and outer rings. In order to have a tight seal I used super glue gel on the “inner ring” of the seal and use some on the outer ring. Make sure the super glue does not get to the moving parts of the pump. Carefully put the seal cover back on the pump and use some string to create a pressure between the pump and seal cover. Let the glue dry up completely. Put the pump back and fluid in the reservoir (1/3 of gallon for testing purpose it takes 1 Gallon to fill up completely) and test the functioning of the pump. Check for any leaks and if OK assemble back the system.
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