OBTW yeah, sorry, took another glance at the circuit diag and PARK switch only affects the GROUND side of the control. So I am leaving that alone for now. GROUND has always tested good.

 

If you are checking voltage to a wire while it is disconnected from the load you will get approx batt voltage even if one strand of wire is connected. You need to check the voltages when the circuit is under load, meaning at the time when you are attempting to start the engine. A few strands will give a voltage reading , but will not be enough to provide the current necessary to energize the relay or solenoid. Voltage drop testing will show the point where there is high resistance and you can work on that problem there.

 

If you have been following this thread you will have noticed that the problem (not cranking on IGN SW) had gone away before I could fix it. So not surprisingly, when I replace the Main Fuse, Relay and Ignition Switch - everything works just fine. Very difficult to fix a problem if you can't re-create it!
I still see 10.24V on the relay control side with the IGN in "Run". That might be normal? I have no Idea. We have experienced the problem of not cranking before but usually only momentary and so can't even say it was the same thing. Have to wait till it happens again. I just need to carry a piece of wire with me (always do anyway) and we'll be fine. If my wife gets stuck she has her phone and we have a truck as a 2nd vehicle partly because I don't like paying a Tow Truck!
The IGN SW is truly a 20 (30) min job. Take the crash panel off and the metal panel behind it. (WELL WORTH the few minutes it takes to do thyis!) Locate the switch - directly behind the key barrel, about 5 inches. Use a mirror to find the screw. I struggled to get the connector off the back because I mis-understood how the clip works. Just one clip and you need to find and depress the barb (arrrow head - don't knw what to call it) with a small prod or screwdriver to release it.
I still need to check out the alarm system!!!
Thanks to all the wonderful help from the great members on this forum. Hope this thread helps others and I will be back if I can add anything.
Thaniks Again.

 

Well, it all seemed to be centered around that relay.
So changing the ignition switch helped to reduce the number of things which could limit the current flow
However, I believe that replacing the relay did the most good. Yes, main and starter relays.
Hope this will be a permanent fix. Fingers crossed.