Hi All,

I'm new here and not a mechanic. I just had new tires put on my 81k 2002 hyundai last week. This weekend my car stalled as I got on our local highway, I pulled off and it stalled completely. After a while the car cooled down and I was able to bring it home. Took it to my mechanic who I've used for years, he tested everything and the only code that came up was for the crank sensor. He replaced it, drove the car home and the next day I had the same issue. Had it towed to my mechanic, the kid with triple A told me it was the alternator but I had a new one put in in Oct. 22 and it was fine after my guy tested it, he replaced the cam sensor today and it is still stalling on him. His friend who works on computers was too busy and said the car was too old and didn't want to be bothered with it. I need this car to go back and forth to work and I do not have the cash to get something else, apparently when the car starts to heat up it shuts down. The only other suggestion my guy had was the coil pack, but he didn't sound all that positive about it not working and he's trustworthy.

Has anyone had this issue? Can someone please give me some insights or help with this? If I wasn't supporting 2 kids in college I'd be alright but as it is I'm in an outer borough of NYC with horrible public transportation. Any help greatly sppreciated.

 

Since many things can contribute to stalling, we need to know a few things.

Does it stall at about the same time after starting the engine? Does it restart easily after stalling?
When it does stall, does it slowly die down and quit, or does it shut off instantly, as if you turned off the ignition?
Little thing like those can help to maybe provide some direction.
Just because an alt was replaced a while ago, is no guaranty it can't be defective now although I don't believe it is the cause of the problem.
The motor requires fuel, spark and air to run, and we will need to determine as close as possible which one of those is dropping out.

 

the two times it happened the dash lit up (brake, oil, check engine, battery) and the car started to slowly sputter. I was able to drive it off of the expressway and onto a service road where it stopped and from what I understand when the engine cooled it started back up. like I said in the original post the sensors were changed, the alternator is new and was tested today. my mechanic is perplexed and hes a great guy. I've been using him for years. He doesn't know if it's the computer, a frayed wire but he sounded like he threw in the towel today because he couldn't figure out what was wrong with it and it's not giving him any additional codes.

 

The one sure way to find the problem is to hook up a recording device, which some scan tools can do, and look for what drops out on the data stream info that was recorded.
Then we have an idea of where to go and start checking. Any other method is simply guessing and that can get expensive.

It is easy enough to verify if the crank sensor is malfunctioning after it gets hot. Just dump some cold water on it when it quits and won't restart and if it stars after cooling it with the cold water , just replace the faulty crank sensor which do not always throw a code.

 

Facing the same problem. Cuts off or slows down when hitting pot holes or turning. When this happens, I throw it in park and it starts up immediately. Mechanic has pretty much broken it down. New crank sensor, fuel injectors, ignition coil, spark plugs, fuel pump, water pump, etc. He is going to have it checked tomorrow by a person skilled in electrical working of cars. I am so frustrated.