i have a 2012 hyundai accent automatic at 135,000km , the car was running fine till it stopped suddenly while coasting at 70 km/h. It was cranking but not strating, the battery died very quickly and lost hazards also, so battery was quite dead.

When towed the car at my house i replaced the battery to make sure for diagnosting, and took a screenshot of the OBD readings (see below). After the battery replacement, I was having 12.3 volts at each coil when turning key On. So i checked the fuse since i tought that no fuel was coming. Found out the injector fuse was blown, replaced it and the car started right away.

Now for the weird part, i can start the car , rev it, stop and restart, but once i put it in Reverse or in Drive the injector fuse blows right away.

So i am now on removing Intake to get access to the injectors, to see what is going on.

If anyone has a clue or can point me on one direction , would be appreciated

 

 

Thanks for the reply, so I've did ground shirt test and found nothing. But now when I put the ignition to On the fuse is blowing right away.

 

You need to look at the electrical schematic, and see if that fuse serves any other function that may be shorted. You should check the injectors for the proper resistance, maybe one has an internal short.
Possibly you can unplug them separately one at a time to isolate the bad one.

 

You might be able to do this,if no diagram is available.
Look in the maintenance section of your vehicle's owners manual.
In there you should find what each fuse protects,,.then you can start looking for anything unusual or possibly rubbing through a wire going to those items

Apparently, there is a DIRECT short and those can be much easier to locate than an intermittent problem. . Also . if you know what items /circuits are involved , you can remove them from the circuit until the fuse no longer blows. What will help would be to install a circuit breaker in place of the fuse and this will prevent you from constantly replacing fuses.. Sometimes a good visual inspection will reveal the culprit and should always be the first thing you do. Also you can feel for hot wiring that is trying to carry the load.. A suggestion,,,,,,,,,,,,,,move one wire at a time and check if that move eliminated the short. If you move a few wires ,you won't know which one had the problem AND IT WILL RETURN !!

 

What some people do is create a test light that will plug into the fuse holder
The short will light the test light bright
Then go around and wriggling wires to see if there is any change in brightness of the test light

Some times the O2 sensor wire frays. Don't know if that is connected to the fuel injectors??
Anyway, it would be easier if you had an electrical diagram (schematics)

 

Well i have found the problem, it was the wires coming from the fuse box and going by the engine where it is hanging by a little metal sheet. The metal sheet cut several wires, i took a picture of where it is located. This week i will redo these wires and try to restart the car to see if anything else is not working. Has you can see i have removed the jacket recovering the wires.
Thanks to all for your help

 

That is a really good catch.
Would have been almost impossible for me to find

Glad you found the problem and can fix it (cheaply)
Hope that is the final fix.

 

hi - I’m having the same problem on my 2013. A slight tug on that bundle of wires blows the fuse. Do you know which wire was the culprit or maybe any tips to offer? Thanks.

 

look about where in the picture where the wires are exposed, for the bracket or sheet metal contact point with the harness