Gas cap was missing for two years and fuel pump rusted, i was lucky to find one from 1998 2D accent, however not installed for almost 2 months and that one died as well, should have put it in a jar of gas.

Now my options are:
- buy a from dealer around $700
- good aftermarket $100-300
- cheap $20 bucks pump
- used original pump pulled by me from junk yard this will cost about $15-25 bucks, i guess i opt for this one.

Problem is X3 Accents are rare find on pick-ur-part in Los Angeles, however plenty of newer models, will fuel pump from next generation LC 1999-2005 or MC 2005-2011 work on older X3?

 

The original part number (31111-22050) was superseded to 31111-3S400.
The part can be found, OEM, from our dealership, brand spanking new for $242.65 at: PUMP - FUEL made by Hyundai. #311113S400.

Although finding the X3 accent in a pick-ur-part might be hard, there are several models within several years that carry the original part number in them.

• Accent
  • 1994-1999
• Elantra
  • 1995-2000
• Tiburon
  • 1996-2001

 

Thx for response i wonder though why i cannot use pump from next gen LC 1999-2005 for instance, does it provide more/less pressure or whats the reason?

 

The part 31111-3S400 shows fitment for the following vehicles:

• Veloster
  • 2011-2016
• Elantra GT
  • 2012-2017
• Elantra
  • 2013-2016

As far as pressure, Hyundai does not provide us with specifications.

- Harold

 

Went today and looked inside Elantra 1999 and Accent 1997 none had fuel pump with part number, does it supposed to be engraved on the metal or printed somewhere, could it be washed off by gasoline?

As far as fuel pressure i guess it should be specified in some diagnostic manuals i will look later, so far i got two pumps that were spinning from 9V battery and no holes in strainer so they should be good for now.

Somewhat there's were a lot of microscopic grinned metal particles on bottom of the strainer and few on top part of the pump where magnets are on both cars, where does it come from? My guess its from i would assume its from the pump, however if it travels from inside pump towards engine it should be stuck in fuel filter and would not come back trough return line then where it comes from?

 

Part numbers are not always engraved on the parts. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which parts would be engraved and which ones would not be.
Metal particles are usually symptoms of a much larger problem. There is not much else I can help with, sorry.
-Harold

 

Can someone explain to me what the heck is wrong in my situation i testing pump with 12V power adapter and it spins no problem, when i put it in the car it does not do anything.

I have bought fuel pump bay from 1998 and its same exact wiring as old one i had rusted.

Now when i measure power plug when key is in on position the plug puts out +12v on the wrong wire not on the one that powers pump, here's the diagram.

Instead of putting +12v to motor (yellow wire) it gives +12v on the green wire that goes to some sensor (green wire) and nothing on the motor.


Do i have to rewire the motor bay or how i make it work?

 

Never mind previous post - mystery is solved, problem is fuel pump relay socket it only produces 5.6volts on relay control wires upon turning the key on so relay does not click.

EDIT: on second try i measured relay control positive terminal to car ground (body) it supplies proper +12v, however relay control negative (ground) terminal to car ground (body) shows +2v however it only shows +2v when key is in on position not all the times, i think this is important.
Resistance terminal GND to car ground (body) is 520Ohm ignition off and 45Ohm ignition on.

When i measure between positive and negative relay terminals i am getting +5.6 volts.

Now its clear to me that short is somewhere on the ground terminal of fuel pump relay switch, however i still cannot trace where it shorted without wiring diagram.

 

Went to junk yard today and torn that poor bastard apart that shorted negative wire goes straight to main computer, perhaps tomorrow i will put a manual switch for a fuel pump instead of relay and see if car starts with current ECU, if not i will change it they still pretty cheap on pick ur part.

 

Good news after i put negative relay wire on car body instead of computer fuel pump relay started working and fuel pump makes noise!

However could not start so i was running back and forth for another couple hours trying to get a fuel to flow as it was not starting, ended up taking fuel pump out for one hundred and third time and cursing it however after testing with 9volt battery and quart of gas it was pumping it fine so i went to only idea i had left is that there was not enough gas in the tank.
It turned to be truth because i only put ~2 gallons and it was not enough, because tank was completely empty, added third gallon and it started no problem. Idle is great too.

Guess i going to smog it Monday then change the tires then just run with current computer.