Hello! I bought a 2007 Elantra to give to my mom. this car was abused so i am bringing it back to life. my main issue right now are the interior lights, and the parking/DRL lights. I have some automotive experience, so i did the usual. replaced all bulbs regardless of condition, checked all fuses and none were blown, tested relays and all checked out fine. I then replaced the interior fuse box because i believe the relay for the lights are soldered to the circuit board inside. still nothing. i then jumped wires for the multifunction switch connector, and determined the fog lights were not coming on with the old switch, so i replaced that as well, but i was not able to get the Parking/DRL lights to come on then, but everything else would work. i replaced the multifunction switch. still nothing.I also replaced the dimmer switch because i heard it can go bad as well. nothing. If i apply 12V+ to the 2-10 amp fuses for the LH and RH tail lamp relays, the interior lights will illuminate and parking/DRL lights will come on. am i missing something in this equation? did not see any diodes in either fuse box. im going crazy here!!

 

Applying 12 volts to the two 10 amp fuses means that they were not getting the 12 volts
Did you check the fuse to see if they are blown?
Are the fuses getting any power to them?
It would be nice to have a schematic
Anyway, check the bigger fuses and or fusible links
Do the power windows work?

 

correct. all fuses and relays under hood and interior fuse box have been replaced and triple checked. no fuses were blown prior to diagnosis. I know, it would be awesome to get my hand on a diagram, but i am having a great time finding info on this car. there are no other fuses that i can see anywhere. the power windows and power locks do not work, i assumed they were a separate issue, but we know what happens when one assumes....

 

I don't have the schematics for an 07 Elantra
Use to own a 2001 Elantra and still have the Haynes manual.
The schematic for it says the fusible link F 30 amp (pink) feeds power to the tail light relay
Which is controlled by the multi-function switch (stalk switch on steering column). It grounds the circuit to turn the relay on.
When the tail light relay is turned on, it gives power to the DRL relay and power windows

So,it seems that you have an open circuit or broken wire somewhere.
The fusible link is in the engine bay fuse box
Check wiring harness for rub through and any corrosion

A short term fix would be to wire power to those two fuses
And check if the power windows work

Sorry, can not help more

 

Thank you for all the help you have given me. I'm autistic and even though I worked at a shop sometimes its hard to get compartmentalized on where to go and look. I will learn how to read wiring diagrams, and trace everything back. I may also back probe the connection for the multi switch one more time using the ground (maybe not the best idea I've had&#128514. But I know i have ground at the switch, maybe isolating and following the wire for the drls might help. Im rambling. Thanks again!

 

You have isolated the problem to no power to the fuses involved.
In the absence of a diagram you will need to do some physical wire tracing..
Before giving you a list of things to do , need to know do you at least have a test light to work with?

 

Yes I do! Snap on, lol

 

Without a diagram, let's trace how power gets to the fuses.
If you start at the battery positive terminal follow the cable to where it connects to either a fuse panel or possibly a power relay.. If it goes to the fuse panel it has to be supplying other things in the vehicle. Once you know there is power to certain fuses , remove one of the fuses and only one side of where the fuse plugs into will have power. Now you know which side of the fuse that is missing power is supposed to have it either all the time or only when the key is on. If the test lite has power at the one side there is some problem why it is not present on both sides when the fuse is in place. If there is no power on one side , you will need to remove the fuse panel mounting and look behind it for that particular fuse. If that is the fuse you put power to it and things worked at least you know the wire color now and follow it back to see why it has no power. This is a little lengthy, but it is what you have to do if no diagram is handy. Don't feel badly because not all wiring diagrams will agree with the colors on your vehicle. That's where persistence pays off..I hope that I explained it clear enough for you to follow. Can you do this ?

 

I understand what you are saying. The fuse I can apply 12V to is in the dashboard fuse box. I did however come across fusible link b+2 and found no power on one side. Will look into this, as I showed power on both side of fusible link b+1. Looks like I'm taking apart the engine bay fuse box (yaaaaaaaay)

 

If you have power on one side of the fusible link , but not the other, no need to remove the fuse panel. Apparently the link is open and needs to be replaced. The purpose of using a fusible link it to provide power for a heavy load temporarily ,whereas a fuse would blow . Links do open when the load has been excessive for too long a time and to prevent a wiring fire the link opens. Usually the link is special wire and can be obtained at most auto supply stores. The links are generally color coded. Usually two wire sizes smaller than the wiring in the circuit.
The smart thing to do ,if that is the problem, is to measure what the current drain is on the circuit and, if excessive , the cause needs to be found and corrected.