Help removing spindle nut to access brake shoes
I have a 2005 Elantra. I want to replace my rear brake shoes. I have a Haynes manual, but I can't find the specific information for my problem. I need suggestions on a tool to unstake the spindle nut that secures the brake drum. Should I use a hammer and a very small/thin chisel ? I was expecting to remove a cotter pin, but this doesn't utilize one.
I would also like advice on removing the spindle nut. The spindle nut looks to be about 32-33mm diameter. I am able to fit a 1-9/32" standard wrench on it fairly snugly. A chart I found says 1-9/32" is equal to 32.54mm. Is a 32mm OK?
A Honda forum I was reading says to use a 1/2" socket drive with a 3 foot breaker bar to loosen a spindle nut, and to keep the wheel attached and lowered to the ground when I do this.
I would sure appreciate advice. I was hoping to replace the brake shoes without using special tools.
Thanks,
Tom
I would also like advice on removing the spindle nut. The spindle nut looks to be about 32-33mm diameter. I am able to fit a 1-9/32" standard wrench on it fairly snugly. A chart I found says 1-9/32" is equal to 32.54mm. Is a 32mm OK?
A Honda forum I was reading says to use a 1/2" socket drive with a 3 foot breaker bar to loosen a spindle nut, and to keep the wheel attached and lowered to the ground when I do this.
I would sure appreciate advice. I was hoping to replace the brake shoes without using special tools.
Thanks,
Tom
The drum is only secured by the 4 studs and wheel. You only need to remove the spindle nut to replace the Spindle/Bearing assembly. You can try to use the the 2 threaded holes with with 10mm bolts to pull the drum. Your brake shoes are probably tight and holds the drum in place. If you strip the the threaded holes (**** happens!) you'll need a puller to remove the drum.
Thanks for replying Eric. If I am reading your message correctly how could the drum be held on the car? On my 2005 Elantra the 4 studs just secure the wheel to the drum. Without the spindle nut the wheel (with the drum still attached) would fall off.
I was able to replace the shoes. I needed a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench after unstaking the nut. What the heck was wrong with utilizing a simple cotter pin, like on my older cars? Oh well.
Unfortunately, I still have a problem. I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working. I have done a half a dozen brake jobs on other cars in the past and never had this happen!
Tom
I was able to replace the shoes. I needed a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench after unstaking the nut. What the heck was wrong with utilizing a simple cotter pin, like on my older cars? Oh well.
Unfortunately, I still have a problem. I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working. I have done a half a dozen brake jobs on other cars in the past and never had this happen!
Tom
Here's how to remove the drum w/o removing the whole spindle assembly:


You need a metric 8mm/125 bolt to remove the drum.

The shoes adjustment need to be tight. Open up the shoes by using a flat screwdriver and "click" the adjustment to open up the shoes. Put the drum in place and turn. you should here the shoes touching the drum. If you don't here anything it's not tight enough. Shoe contact with the drum is normal.


You need a metric 8mm/125 bolt to remove the drum.
The shoes adjustment need to be tight. Open up the shoes by using a flat screwdriver and "click" the adjustment to open up the shoes. Put the drum in place and turn. you should here the shoes touching the drum. If you don't here anything it's not tight enough. Shoe contact with the drum is normal.
Last edited by EricS; Aug 3, 2009 at 09:43 PM.
Thanks Eric, you were right on the money. I am going to throw my Haynes manual away. It caused me a lot of unnecessary grief. You kept me from messing with my parking brake cable, which would have dug me an even deeper hole.
That's a happy ending!
I recommend you take a look at http://www.hmaservice.com.
They have the shop manuals for all North American Hyundai's and it's free!
This is and excellent initiative from Hyundai and a good resource for all weekend's mechanics. Haynes isn't bad but they do manuals for all the cars that exist on earth. They have a lot of stuff that is generic and not vehicle specific causing confusion once in a while...
I recommend you take a look at http://www.hmaservice.com.
They have the shop manuals for all North American Hyundai's and it's free!
This is and excellent initiative from Hyundai and a good resource for all weekend's mechanics. Haynes isn't bad but they do manuals for all the cars that exist on earth. They have a lot of stuff that is generic and not vehicle specific causing confusion once in a while...
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