RPMs Drop to 0, Engine Stalls
Hey guys,
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with ~96k miles and the 2.4L engine that has been working fine up until the last month. What's started happening is, while driving (typically within the first five minutes of starting the engine), the engine pauses and the RPMs drop to zero. This has happened both during normal acceleration as well as while maintaining speed.
It started out only happening for a second or two, but yesterday was the worst when it happened for right about 5 seconds. Yesterday was also the first time the CEL came on (but only for a moment, then went back out).
Based on the research I've been doing for other cars with similar issues, it seems like this could either be related to the fuel relay, fuel pump, or crankshaft position sensor. Fair warning, I just bought this car a few months ago and haven't yet replaced plugs, wires, or much of anything else really.
Has anyone had/seen issues like this before?
TIA,
Brian
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with ~96k miles and the 2.4L engine that has been working fine up until the last month. What's started happening is, while driving (typically within the first five minutes of starting the engine), the engine pauses and the RPMs drop to zero. This has happened both during normal acceleration as well as while maintaining speed.
It started out only happening for a second or two, but yesterday was the worst when it happened for right about 5 seconds. Yesterday was also the first time the CEL came on (but only for a moment, then went back out).
Based on the research I've been doing for other cars with similar issues, it seems like this could either be related to the fuel relay, fuel pump, or crankshaft position sensor. Fair warning, I just bought this car a few months ago and haven't yet replaced plugs, wires, or much of anything else really.
Has anyone had/seen issues like this before?
TIA,
Brian
the crank position sensor would be my guess. This is typically responsible for displaying your RPM's, and is a link in the circuit that the computer uses to regulate your engine while running. Whether its the component or the connection will have to be determined. There may be more than one of these sensors as well.
I got another CEL code yesterday: P0335.
So it would seem your assessment about the CPS was correct. I've been looking around and trying to figure out what the best way to go about testing/replacing this is.
I think I've got enough info on testing from http://www.hmaservice.com (free DTC code troubleshooting and shop manuals), but I've seen mixed reports on whether I actually have to remove the timing belt in order to change this.
Has anyone messed with this that can confirm?
Thanks,
Brian
So it would seem your assessment about the CPS was correct. I've been looking around and trying to figure out what the best way to go about testing/replacing this is.
I think I've got enough info on testing from http://www.hmaservice.com (free DTC code troubleshooting and shop manuals), but I've seen mixed reports on whether I actually have to remove the timing belt in order to change this.
Has anyone messed with this that can confirm?
Thanks,
Brian
I don't know where the sensor(s) are on the santa fe. My other car has them on the bottom of the engine block where the crank shaft spins and I think one where the cam shaft turns. If its one where the cam shaft is, then you may have to get in behind the timing belt.
I've used the website alldatadiy.com before just so I could know where things are. Its a subscription fee. If its something you can get to, it'll be a small price to pay vs a mechanic.
I've used the website alldatadiy.com before just so I could know where things are. Its a subscription fee. If its something you can get to, it'll be a small price to pay vs a mechanic.
Thanks for the responses guys. Just out of happenchance, I checked the fluids last night and my both my oil and coolant levels were bone dry...
After recovering from my mild heart attack, I filled them both up. I then wondered those two issues might cause the failure I saw, so I took it out for a spin. I brought it up to highway speed 5x and had no stutters, stops, or cut-outs. Same thing this morning on the way to work, not one problem.
Crossing my fingers that that was the issue. I'll report back if I have any further problems.
Thanks,
Brian

After recovering from my mild heart attack, I filled them both up. I then wondered those two issues might cause the failure I saw, so I took it out for a spin. I brought it up to highway speed 5x and had no stutters, stops, or cut-outs. Same thing this morning on the way to work, not one problem.
Crossing my fingers that that was the issue. I'll report back if I have any further problems.
Thanks,
Brian
Well it came back...and I ended up having to replace my crankshaft position sensor. Glad I paid my mechanic for it though...I paid $325 and he said he wouldn't ever do it for under $600 again. Guess a lot of man hours goes into changing one of those things.
On another note, I found out the reason my oil was leaking was a loose drain plug
and the leaking coolant was due to a leak in the lower part of the radiator.
For anyone planning to replace the radiator (did it myself) plan on a whole weekend as this is not a quick and easy task (you have to remove the front bumper to even think about doing it).
On another note, I found out the reason my oil was leaking was a loose drain plug
and the leaking coolant was due to a leak in the lower part of the radiator.For anyone planning to replace the radiator (did it myself) plan on a whole weekend as this is not a quick and easy task (you have to remove the front bumper to even think about doing it).
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