1995 Sonata dying when warm
#11
01-05-2009, 08:10 PM
RE: 1995 Sonata dying when warm
Yeah Ill check the tach too. Ive recently changed the timing belt so that cant be the problem. And offcourse wouldnt get far anyway if that was the issue. So "crank angle sensor = "crank position sensor"? Thanks man! Come to thinkof it I vaguely remember the tach reading 0 rpm, but Im not sure, Ill check it out.
#12
01-05-2009, 08:26 PM
RE: 1995 Sonata dying when warm
I wouldn't just start changing sensors without some sort of verification of the problem. You're just shooting in the dark, which can get expensive, especially in Norway.
Last edited by NovaResource; 09-20-2011 at 02:11 PM.
#13
01-05-2009, 08:51 PM
RE: 1995 Sonata dying when warm
ORIGINAL: jsinton
I wouldn't just start changing sensors without some sort of verification of the problem. You're just shooting in the dark, which can get expensive, especially in Norway.
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I wouldn't just start changing sensors without some sort of verification of the problem. You're just shooting in the dark, which can get expensive, especially in Norway.
[align=left][/align]
#14
01-05-2009, 09:32 PM
RE: 1995 Sonata dying when warm
[align=left]After re-reading you problem description, I came to a different conclusion. You have all the symptoms of a "gunked" gas tank, which will clog the the filter screen on the fuel pump. There will be no trouble codes I believe. Over time in an old car, gunk forms in a gas tank, especially if you use cheap gas, live in a cold climate, and perhaps it rains and snows a lot. Many times, the gunk will cling to the walls of the tank, and if it doesn't slosh around too much, and you keep the tank full a lot, it's usually ok. Sometimes people get "rear ended" and it knocks all the gunk loose, and these symptoms occur. Other times people let the tank get too low, and the fuel pump sucks up the gunk.
The classic symptom is engine coughing and sputtering after a few minutes, leading eventually to engine cutting out all together. After letting the car sit for a little while, the car will start and the process occurs all over again. Sometimes the car will run better if the gas tank is full.
The fix is to drop the tank, buy some commercial gas tank cleaning agent, make a big mess, pull out the fuel pump and clean the fuel pump screen. If you rather not drop the tank, you can just try pulling the fuel pump out and clean the screen, but that still leaves lots of gunk. In any event, you can pull out the pump and do an inspection (look inside the tank).
It happens all the time, seen it lots of times. I had an old Mitsubishi that coughed and sputtered for a year after it got rear ended. I never figured it out till much later. Really common in Chrysler products for some reason. My Mitsubishi had a common motor with Chrysler. I think your Sonata has a Mitsubishi designed motor, doesn't it?
The classic symptom is engine coughing and sputtering after a few minutes, leading eventually to engine cutting out all together. After letting the car sit for a little while, the car will start and the process occurs all over again. Sometimes the car will run better if the gas tank is full.
The fix is to drop the tank, buy some commercial gas tank cleaning agent, make a big mess, pull out the fuel pump and clean the fuel pump screen. If you rather not drop the tank, you can just try pulling the fuel pump out and clean the screen, but that still leaves lots of gunk. In any event, you can pull out the pump and do an inspection (look inside the tank).
It happens all the time, seen it lots of times. I had an old Mitsubishi that coughed and sputtered for a year after it got rear ended. I never figured it out till much later. Really common in Chrysler products for some reason. My Mitsubishi had a common motor with Chrysler. I think your Sonata has a Mitsubishi designed motor, doesn't it?
Last edited by NovaResource; 09-20-2011 at 02:11 PM.
#15
01-05-2009, 10:54 PM
RE: 1995 Sonata dying when warm
ORIGINAL: jsinton
[align=left]After re-reading you problem description, I came to a different conclusion. You have all the symptoms of a "gunked" gas tank, which will clog the the filter screen on the fuel pump. There will be no trouble codes I believe. Over time in an old car, gunk forms in a gas tank, especially if you use cheap gas, live in a cold climate, and perhaps it rains and snows a lot. Many times, the gunk will cling to the walls of the tank, and if it doesn't slosh around too much, and you keep the tank full a lot, it's usually ok. Sometimes people get "rear ended" and it knocks all the gunk loose, and these symptoms occur. Other times people let the tank get too low, and the fuel pump sucks up the gunk.
The classic symptom is engine coughing and sputtering after a few minutes, leading eventually to engine cutting out all together. After letting the car sit for a little while, the car will start and the process occurs all over again. Sometimes the car will run better if the gas tank is full.
The fix is to drop the tank, buy some commercial gas tank cleaning agent, make a big mess, pull out the fuel pump and clean the fuel pump screen. If you rather not drop the tank, you can just try pulling the fuel pump out and clean the screen, but that still leaves lots of gunk. In any event, you can pull out the pump and do an inspection (look inside the tank).
It happens all the time, seen it lots of times. I had an old Mitsubishi that coughed and sputtered for a year after it got rear ended. I never figured it out till much later. Really common in Chrysler products for some reason. My Mitsubishi had a common motor with Chrysler. I think your Sonata has a Mitsubishi designed motor, doesn't it?
[/align][align=left][/align]
[align=left]After re-reading you problem description, I came to a different conclusion. You have all the symptoms of a "gunked" gas tank, which will clog the the filter screen on the fuel pump. There will be no trouble codes I believe. Over time in an old car, gunk forms in a gas tank, especially if you use cheap gas, live in a cold climate, and perhaps it rains and snows a lot. Many times, the gunk will cling to the walls of the tank, and if it doesn't slosh around too much, and you keep the tank full a lot, it's usually ok. Sometimes people get "rear ended" and it knocks all the gunk loose, and these symptoms occur. Other times people let the tank get too low, and the fuel pump sucks up the gunk.
The classic symptom is engine coughing and sputtering after a few minutes, leading eventually to engine cutting out all together. After letting the car sit for a little while, the car will start and the process occurs all over again. Sometimes the car will run better if the gas tank is full.
The fix is to drop the tank, buy some commercial gas tank cleaning agent, make a big mess, pull out the fuel pump and clean the fuel pump screen. If you rather not drop the tank, you can just try pulling the fuel pump out and clean the screen, but that still leaves lots of gunk. In any event, you can pull out the pump and do an inspection (look inside the tank).
It happens all the time, seen it lots of times. I had an old Mitsubishi that coughed and sputtered for a year after it got rear ended. I never figured it out till much later. Really common in Chrysler products for some reason. My Mitsubishi had a common motor with Chrysler. I think your Sonata has a Mitsubishi designed motor, doesn't it?
[/align][align=left][/align]
#16
03-22-2009, 11:34 AM
I finally bothered to dig my car out of the snow and tried to start it after 2 months in the cold. After recharging the battery the first time, I emptied it completely without starting the car successfully. So I recharged it once more and this time it started, so I took it for a short trip, and it ran ok. After this I started it now and then and just let it run. And a week after that I couldnt start it at all. My father came and let me mooch some battery power off of his car, so that wasnt an issue anymore. The engine just wouldnt turn over, I got spark, and the exhaust smells like gasoline. So does this mean that its most likely the crankshaft sensor?
#17
03-22-2009, 11:39 AM
No, it means the crankshaft sensor is good. The ECM completely cuts off spark and fuel until rotation of the crank is confirmed.
#18
03-22-2009, 11:42 AM
When you say the car will not start, are you saying the battery turns the starter over but will not start, or the battery will not turn the starter over at all?
#19
03-22-2009, 01:05 PM
It turns the starter over but it wont start. I get like "brom" brom" "brom", without managing to start it. The tach does rev btw. With this, and previously mentioned problems, do you have any idea what might be the problem?
#20
03-22-2009, 08:58 PM
After sitting for a few months, I wonder if the current starting problem is unrelated to the first one and more related to sitting in a snow bank. Perhaps dirty injectors or idle speed controller. You might also have water in the fuel tank for sitting for such a period in your environment. You might trying adding some gas tank dryer/antifreeze to the car along with a bottle of injector cleaner. If you are handy enough, I would buy an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner and clean the interior of the throttle body and the idle speed controller. It certainly wouldn't hurt to pull and check the condition of the spark plugs.