Hmmm well the tank is half full now and im pretty sure that I put a bottle of "anti-condensation" in this very batch of fuel, which should have removed the water in the fuel system. But offcourse, after sitting for some time, it mightve gotten some more water. I know the initial problem wasnt water-related though, as I have had problems with water before, but that was easily taken care of and the car reacted alot differently. As you point out it might be 2 seperate problems. Is it a possibility that the MAF can be the problem as my mechanic first thought?

When i try to start the engine it really sounds to me that it just doesnt get fuel, or wrong mixture perhaps? But Ill check the plugs anyway, which was my initial plan, but I just didnt have "small" enough tools to get around, as its quite narrow in there. But Ill get my butt over and buy new tools though. (Damn my laziness) But its quite unlikely that more than 1 plug is bad, and it shouldve started with 1 dysfunctional plug. Ill buy some injector cleaner too. And when you mention the idle speed controller, i did have some minor problems related to this earlier (?); not excactly when idling, but when I was driving and took my foot of the gas pedal around 60 Km/h, the tach jumped up and down in the range of 300-400 rpm`s I believe it was. Does the idle speed controller also control this? Can I do anything about the idle speed controller if its bad?

 

Yes, the present problem could be MAF related, but I think it more than that. Perhaps a combination of old spark plugs, balky MAF, poor gas condition, etc.

The idle speed controller (also called an idle air controller on some engines) does exactly what it sounds like. It has it's own throttle plate to control intake air velocity that is connected to a stepper motor control by the ECU to maintain proper idle rpm. At speed it is basically not doing anything. From what you describe, it wasn't a problem with the ISC but most likely a bad throttle position sensor.

 

As I mentioned in my original post I couldnt start it when the engine was warm earlier, but I could when cold. Now I cant start it when cold either, so couldnt the problem indeed be the crankshaft position sensor as it previously worked when cold, combined with an additional problem now? Since it seemed to get in trouble when warm, I wont see the signs that indicate a bad sensor now that I cant test it when warm. Either way Ill check the plugs and buy some injector cleaner. Thanks alot for your help, much appreciated.

 

guys sorry new to this forum.. i got the same problem with my car but i'm in australia.. can someone tell me if there is also an ecu code error on this forum so i can check .. and is this problem fixed??? on my dash board when i'm driving the light "check engine"light up every time.. help

 

This problem is exactly the same i was experiencing with my 1997 sonata...when it gets warm it cuts out....also pointed to the crank sensor...but what i found is that the crank sensor is a signal given to the power transistor unit which in turn fires the coils...and this unit is mounted on a plate attached to the engine which when heated breaks down the components input signal from the sensor and the computer reads it as the crank sensor itself...replaced unit and walla....