Question. I need to replace my cat and not exactly sure the right one to order. When looking it up, there seems to be different assortments. Oh and I live in California.

 

California .... ....

Sorry, live in New York.
This is all I know ... (and probably is wrong)
Check the emissions label on the vehicle.
Should be in or around the hood.
There should be an Engine Family Number
This number should be given to the auto parts store to match up the cat to your vehicle.

 

Some aftermarket cats don't work near as well as OEM. or last as long.
Especially in California,,,,,,,,,,, there may be requirements of your record of purchase,and installation to insure the correct converter has been installed.

Can we ask why you need to replace the converter ?
The reason I ask is, if there is an underlying problem that caused the failure of the converter and it has not been discovered and corrected, it will also destroy the replacement converter. Would you know what happened there?

 

I replaced the CAT. Reason for me doing so was the car lost power under load, bad gas mileage, hard start. Now that was after I replaced the fuel filter, pump, solenoid (because old one broke), as well as a laundry list of other things. I have been dealing with this issue for over a year and yesterday I picked up my car after the CAT was installed, and it STILL runs like crap. Someone told me I'd need to drive it around to reset the computer and it well run fine. Anyone out there know about this?

 

I wouldn't be too sure about that.
Can we ask a question or two,
How many miles are on the vehicle ?
If and when was the timing belt replaced ?

 

What exactly was done to the vehicle?
It might help to know what was done and what wasn't done?

 

Over the last 14 months I have replaced; Plugs, wires, valve cover gasket, cam positioning, crank and throttle sensor, purge valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel solenoid, fuel pressure valve, air filter, MAF sensor, oil change, alternator, battery, rear CAT and belts and that's what I can remember off the top of my head. Car has 152,000 miles. I'm the only owner and have always kept up the maintenance. I've done little driving after all that due to it running bad.
And none of that has fixed the car from original symptoms, bogging down under load, not able to accelerate over 40/50 mph. bad gas mileage, although I don't have the hard start, just rough idle when cold.

 

Who replaced the timing belt?

 

not timing belt but serpentine belt (connected to alternator) and it was done at a auto shop. They told me it needed to be driven. Also after I picked it up my radio &
clock doesn't work (fuses are intact) and my "trunk open" light is on and its closed, Strange. I stand corrected on the throttle sensor, I hadn't changed it. I want to mention other "issues" with the car, may or may not be related; ticking in engine and speedometer fluctuates

 

The following are wild guesses.

Electrical issues seem to be wiring related
If this were a Chrysler product then would say that the Total Integrated Power Module (TIPM or fuse box)was a possible issue.
It may still be a fuse box issue but can not tell without a few tests and inspection.

Bogged down when loaded sounds like limp home mode.
That happens some times when the front right ABS sensor or CV tone ring is not functioning properly, along with the vehicle speed sensor.
Don't know?