I bought this 2005 2.4L with only 101k. Other then needing a Timing Belt it ran great. I drive Uber BTW..

So I replaced the Timing and Balance shaft belt off Amazon first thing. Then discovered the CPS was falling apart. So that was added.

A few months later that cheap CPS died, and I was able to get the new one in. Without removing the timing belt, on the side of the road. This time it was a Lifetime warranty part from O'Reilly's.

Then the car randomly died while driving a customer. No codes this entire issue.

Then again, and again.. however it doesn't happen with the A/C running..

I replaced the Throttle position sensor, and re-soldered most of the Body Computer which fixed the Dash Lighter socket, and the Dome light.

Then it happened again.. this time with more fuel. So I replaced the fuel pump.

I cleaned ALL of the Grounds I could find.

Then I re-soldered the Body PC.,.. Now the ECU (by the fuse box). Which calmed a 75mph vibration oddly.

Yet it's still dying randomly, and I still can't find the dash boards common ground! The A/C always resolves the issue.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to resolve this??

 

When you turn on the A/C it places a higher demand for current from the battery and charging syst. It might be a good idea to start checking at the fuse supply panel for power supply connections and maybe a corroded fuse connection. It could be a ground problem, but I wonder if it is someplace aside from the dash since no other dash problems are apparent.

 

So,.. this all started with a bad Crankshaft position sensor. CEL and all.

I replaced it on the roadside, with a Lifetime warranty O'Reilly's part. No Knicks, or trouble with the, then 25k mile Timing belt.

Since then. I tried the Fuel pump, due to it seemingly being at lower fuel levels. Then the Throttle Position Sensor, because it can cause sudden stalls. Then I tried a new Fuel pump relay. Then re-soldered the Body PC (which fixed a few other things). Next I re-soldered the entire ECU. Then cleaned all of the Fuse contacts, and relay contacts.

Yesterday I found the Ground inside/under the console. It was filthy, but not anymore.

Still,.... Again.. it died..

I'm going to re-re-re-re-do the Tming belt, and replace the "lifetime warranty" Crankshaft position sensor again..

I sure am tired of this... this one issue has made this car a total lemon!

 

From MANY bad experiences, I try to stay with OEM parts when possible. A good portion of cheap replacement parts come from places that send us plain junk that is defective right out of the box. That said,
Consider getting a crank sensor from Hyundai and doing the job once.
You might consider stopping at one of the auto supply stores and having the vehicle checked for any codes , especially history codes and that might provide some direction to where you should be checking.

 

Judging by the aluminium fuses, plugged into steel connectors, the cheap button for the fuel door and the really lousy trunk latch switch. I'd say that Hyundai cut as many corners as they could find for this car. I mean the brake rotors aren't even vented! More then half the solder joints were iffy... Maybe they got better in 2006, when production moved to the U.S.,.. but reports that year don't look to hot either!

I found a supplier for the Hyundai OEM sensor. It actually comes with a whopping 1 year warranty, for $36,.. Where as the O'Reilly's part comes with a Lifetime warranty for the already spent $62 (the part I already bought).

As for codes? There are no codes. I had codes when the OEM sensor fell apart. They returned when installed the $35 Amazon sensor, and returned when it failed.

The current issue has persisted ever since that day. Not one code has kicked since! Which was partly why I thought the fuel pump was dying. There are no codes for running out of gas.

 

This is where you might help us get a better picture of what might be happening.
When it shuts down, and we know you can tell the difference from all the work you have already done, does it feel like it just shuts off like you turned off the key or does it kinda slow down and quit like it just ran out of gas? When this happens do the dash lights come on right before it happens to die? What we are attempting to determine is if it is electrical or fuel related. Yes, electrical can cutoff fuel, but some folks can tell the difference and I think this might be getting overlooked by your frustration. What do you think?

If you have the owners manual there should be a fuse/relay diagram in there. You might want to hook up a test lite to the output of the power/ign relays and verify if any one of them is dropping out while driving.

 

There is a slight inconsistency in the idle. A few times, the oil light flashed,.. the Shifter, Parking lock in the console clatters.. then it dies. The Check engine light, oil light and other "Pre-start lights turn on fully, as if waiting for you to turn the key. If it's in gear, the shut down is accompanied by a transmission shutter.

The car starts back up immediately. Leaving no CEL left on.

Due to this all starting with that Crankshaft Position sensor... I plan to to replace it today. Before that sensor was installed this was a great car.

 

If all this started with that sensor replacement , check the wiring to that sensor very carefully for it to be touching a metal part of the vehicle and causing the loss of the signal.
Many times a wire rubs through somewhere and can drive a tech nuts looking for a problem with the sensor.

 

I would definitely agree with you Hanky! Especially with this engine! The wire (which is double wrapped from the factory) runs very close to the timing belt. It's very well known for the belt rubbing through the wire if it's not routed properly.

13 days ago my Balancer shaft belt broke, while doing 75mph! It, and the timing belt were only 33K miles old and Hyundai OEM belts. The broken belt DID knock the Timing belt. So I replaced both belts. This time with well warrantied GATES belts (they had a cloth like tooth side unlike the Hyundai belts too).

I was VERY lucky that the belt just jammed up in the engine. They did not take out the Sensor, or the Timing belt.

While I was in there. I inspected that sensor. It looks exactly like the day I put it in. The wire looks fine too, no routing issues, or wear to be seen.

The rest of the wire routs right over the top of the engine. Plugging into a "rack" of plugs near the fire wall. It is the newest looking wire under my hood.

I did clean the plug contacts when this first started happening. I forgot about that though. Obviously it didn't help. But that connector I see is offered at O'Reilly's as it's own part. plus I found a forum thread where a guy cut and twisted those plug wires, and fixed his dying issues.

It's amazing this car is as reliable as it has been, seeing all the factory cut corners.

 

Since the wiring might have been involved, Is it possible that there is a break within those wires that may not be visible on visual inspection?
I would verify continuity while moving the wires around, especially, since it can be a PIA to keep going back in there , possibly blaming the sensors.