2007 Electrical Problems
#1
05-19-2019, 03:57 PM
2007 Electrical Problems
About a year ago my Radio stopped working - totally dead. A few weeks ago it suddenly ejected my CD (which I grabbed before it could change it's mind!!) and the radio functioned perfectly. Yesterday it stopped working again. Today my wife couldn't start the car at the shopping centre. First it wouldn't unlock remotely and there seemed to be no power (no dash lights), after a few fiddles the lights came on intermittently and eventually stayed on and she was able to start the car and drive home normally. (Clock said 12:00)
2 or 3 years ago we experienced the ESC light coming on for no apparent reason. As soon as we drove 200 yds the light would come on and stay on. Consistently and every time we drove the car. Before I could find the problem it went away (after several months).
I have recently replaced the battery and cleaned the connections and there have never been any error codes.
I think I should fix the radio problem because I think it may be a bare wire somewhere (I've check all the fuses). We don't get much rain but I think it started working in the rain! I will also check the hood sensor and all bulbs. And I will check the battery connections again!!
Anyone know how to get at the Radio wiring? How to remove the console?
2 or 3 years ago we experienced the ESC light coming on for no apparent reason. As soon as we drove 200 yds the light would come on and stay on. Consistently and every time we drove the car. Before I could find the problem it went away (after several months).
I have recently replaced the battery and cleaned the connections and there have never been any error codes.
I think I should fix the radio problem because I think it may be a bare wire somewhere (I've check all the fuses). We don't get much rain but I think it started working in the rain! I will also check the hood sensor and all bulbs. And I will check the battery connections again!!
Anyone know how to get at the Radio wiring? How to remove the console?
#2
05-19-2019, 05:05 PM
As you are probably aware, you can't always see an electrical problem ,only the result.
Usually anytime you open the power supply to an electric clock it will reset back to 12:00 .
If we take that as a clue and start looking for some possible /apparent sudden power or ground loss , it could help solve the problem.
I at this time would not just yet get involved in targeting the radio since dash lights also got into the picture. What I would suggest is to check the connections where power goes to the fuse panel . Something also commonly overlooked is the other half of the electrical supply system , the ground side. Starting at the negative battery terminal check every ground connection you can find especially the connections to the body sheet metal. Checking them means removing , cleaning and reinstalling them, Looking at them does NOTHING ! It is always worth the effort, but tough to swallow when after you get done the problem is gone and you don't know which one it was..
Usually anytime you open the power supply to an electric clock it will reset back to 12:00 .
If we take that as a clue and start looking for some possible /apparent sudden power or ground loss , it could help solve the problem.
I at this time would not just yet get involved in targeting the radio since dash lights also got into the picture. What I would suggest is to check the connections where power goes to the fuse panel . Something also commonly overlooked is the other half of the electrical supply system , the ground side. Starting at the negative battery terminal check every ground connection you can find especially the connections to the body sheet metal. Checking them means removing , cleaning and reinstalling them, Looking at them does NOTHING ! It is always worth the effort, but tough to swallow when after you get done the problem is gone and you don't know which one it was..
#3
05-19-2019, 06:18 PM
Good thought, so I took my meter and checked the battery connections. Ground to a body bolt, positive to the fuse box under the hood. All are perfect! Yank on the cables - can't make any difference. Turn on the running lights and haul on as many cables as I get my hands on - lights don't flicker!
There is a separate feed to the fuse-box so there doesn't seem much point in checking the starter motor cable (as I might have done on an older car)
I checked the hood switch and it looks fine - don't really have any reason to pull that (unless I want to by-pass it!!)
I might as well fix the radio and see what else I can find? Which brings me back to:- How to get behind the radio?
There is a separate feed to the fuse-box so there doesn't seem much point in checking the starter motor cable (as I might have done on an older car)
I checked the hood switch and it looks fine - don't really have any reason to pull that (unless I want to by-pass it!!)
I might as well fix the radio and see what else I can find? Which brings me back to:- How to get behind the radio?
#5
05-20-2019, 03:56 AM
You could be right , but if the entire electrical system went out to lunch, do you think you might have noticed something unusual in the engine performance ?
You are doing voltage drop testing with the circuits being under load when using your meter , Yes/ No ?
You could also be right with the radio, but you are there and I am not !
What about the ground connections inside the vehicle ?
You are doing voltage drop testing with the circuits being under load when using your meter , Yes/ No ?
You could also be right with the radio, but you are there and I am not !
What about the ground connections inside the vehicle ?
#6
05-20-2019, 11:06 AM
Hanky,
I set my meter to the lowest resistance reading and, with the ignition off, tested from the battery post to a body screw - reading 0.000
Tested the positive post to a post inside the fuse box - reading 0.000
Turned on the running lights and tried prying on the battery posts - light don't flicker, clock didn't change.
also, on second thoughts, if it was a faulty battery, I would expect it might cut out when I run over a pothole or speed bump. That's never happened.
I'm ready to call that a "Ghost" until it re-appears. I have an isolation device in the ground cable and that was my first thought, but it was so tight I had to get my gloves on to release it!! And there was no sign of corrosion. It's only a couple of weeks since I did the battery and the cables - got rid of Hyundai's weird post clamps!
HAS TO BE THE GROUND CONNECTION! But I can't figure out how!
As for getting at the radio, that post you directed me to seems to imply that I need to remove bolts behind the gear shifter and pry the radio console off. But mine is an Automatic, (no grommet to unzip) so next question is "how do I get the cover off the gear shifter?"
I set my meter to the lowest resistance reading and, with the ignition off, tested from the battery post to a body screw - reading 0.000
Tested the positive post to a post inside the fuse box - reading 0.000
Turned on the running lights and tried prying on the battery posts - light don't flicker, clock didn't change.
also, on second thoughts, if it was a faulty battery, I would expect it might cut out when I run over a pothole or speed bump. That's never happened.
I'm ready to call that a "Ghost" until it re-appears. I have an isolation device in the ground cable and that was my first thought, but it was so tight I had to get my gloves on to release it!! And there was no sign of corrosion. It's only a couple of weeks since I did the battery and the cables - got rid of Hyundai's weird post clamps!
HAS TO BE THE GROUND CONNECTION! But I can't figure out how!
As for getting at the radio, that post you directed me to seems to imply that I need to remove bolts behind the gear shifter and pry the radio console off. But mine is an Automatic, (no grommet to unzip) so next question is "how do I get the cover off the gear shifter?"
)
#9
05-20-2019, 02:27 PM
You didn't really think I would have anything to add to that !
In my case, it is better to be thought a fool than to open my mouth and remove all doubt !
If I may,
Think about this, If I have one single strand of wire and measure the resistance, it will read 0 ohms AND yet not carry enough current to supply a circuit. Therefore resistance testing is faulty and not reliable. That is why the circuit has to be loaded (as used) and voltage drop checked. That is the better way to check connections. If not sure how to do this, there are some good videos explaining the procedure.
In my case, it is better to be thought a fool than to open my mouth and remove all doubt !
If I may,
Think about this, If I have one single strand of wire and measure the resistance, it will read 0 ohms AND yet not carry enough current to supply a circuit. Therefore resistance testing is faulty and not reliable. That is why the circuit has to be loaded (as used) and voltage drop checked. That is the better way to check connections. If not sure how to do this, there are some good videos explaining the procedure.