Switched on the heated rear window for first time this year. Orange indicator light flashed for a second then died. The relay clicks in, so guess that the either the fuse has just blown, or the wiring harness has broken again at the tailgate end. My question is, after looking in the owners manual, I cannot locate which fuse rating, or fuse number covers the heated rear window. I did leave it switched on just in case it was just the indicator light, but no, rear window was not heating up. Could anyone let me know the fuse number and rating, so I can check it before dismantling the harness to look for the short.

 

If as you suspect, there is a short in the circuit, , just look for the fuse that is open and you will have found which fuse that is
.Do it once and make a note, so you don't need to do the same search again if the situation repeats.

Now,, if you are repairing the bare wire that is connecting to a possible ground or some other grounded circuit, just cutting out the bad section and installing a same length piece of wire is a sure way to have it come back again to haunt you. If it is at a location where the harness is always flexing ,it might pay to put a loop in the wire so the loop moves and does not need to bend every time the hatch is opened.

 

Hello,

That's what I did when the self parking failed on the rear wiper. What I was after is without taking out every fuse to see which has blown I can not see from the owners manual which fuse number covers the heated rear window.

 

If you are planning to help yourself in the future, suggest investing in a simple test light OR voltmeter.

The ATO fuses have an opening on each end on the top of the fuse that is accessible with a test light pointer without removing the fuse. You can check every fuse in the panel in less than two minutes and with the least amount of effort. Pulling fuses is for those that are not aware of this simple check.
If you have power on one end , you must have power on the other end, , if not , the fuse is open ,very easy to do and quick.

 

The fuses are plug in ones located to theright of the steering wheel. There is no where to put a meter on them when they are in situ. Found this out the hard way when the rear wiper packed up. Guess I will have to take them all out and check them seperatly.

 

If you can get your hands or tool in there to pull a fuse , you should have no problem sticking a pointed test light or meter probe on the top of any fuse.

What is really going on here? Are you sure how to use the voltmeter?

 

As someone who has done an apprentiship in electronics then yes, I know how to use a multimeter. I have taken all the relevant fuses out by hand and checked them. Just seems strange that the indicator light on the switch does not work when the button is press, just the relay clicks in. As the relay cuts in OK. No break on wiring so must be the relay. Although in the past I have not had problems with relays. Guess there is always a first time.

 

Good Morning Chunky6,

Come on now,
You know that if you placed the ground lead of the voltmeter on a good ground and probed the tops of the fuses you should get a reading, don't you ?
Some fuses require the key to be on. Anyway, that is how you do that test. Taking out each fuse and measuring it's continuity is what amateurs do.

A little reminder, if only one strand of wire is connected , the ohmmeter will read continuity, "0" ohms and yet the system cannot get the current it needs to operate.

 

On the 2013 i10, you have to remove the fuse to check it. The top of the fuse is all plastic. Fuses checked, wiring checked so assume the relay is at fault. No idea why the warning light does not work as I would expect that to be on the same feed as the power to the relay. Need to go back and recheck everything, before swapping the relay.

 

As you are probably aware, all relays are not the same,
I would make sure the number on the relays are the same when you switch them.
Let us know how you make out OK, thanks.