Ichi - good news; problem fixed. You were right. When I removed the rubber hose from the fuel tanks filler neck I was able to see right into the tank. There was nothing stopping the fuel from coming back out. My mechanic did not think to look in the old tank for this part. I called the dealer and got the part. I forgot to take a pic in my excitement however can describe it: 5-6 inches and fits into the fuel tanks filler neck like a sleeve. Just slides in. No bolts/screws. The part number is: 3115522900 - valve-fuel cut. Image of part bag attached. $9.99. Dealer part.

Went to the gas station, filled up and NO spit back

Attached is the fuel tank schematic. The part in question is 31155A and 31161B. This comes as one part.

Remember, when having a NEW fuel tank installed make sure to transfer the fuel cut valve from your old tank to the new one!!!

Hope this is useful for others.


James

 

Thanks for all of the posts.
I am a college student graduating in May. My '09 Sonata has the exact same problems that are listed here. I have read many of the posts, and unfortunately it makes me realize how unfamiliar with car repairs I am. I have none of the tools that are listed, nor do I know how I would even go about getting under my car to do the work if I had them.
What is my best course of action to fix the problem? Should I find a way to do it myself, or is it worth it to take it to a mechanic and have him do it for me? Also, what will it end up costing me if I do it each way (assuming I have to replace the canister itself).
Thanks all, this thread has been super helpful!

 

I think that it is a real shame that high schools are discontinuing classes such as auto shop. I graduated high school in 1972, and had taken auto shop classes there. When I was going to college, I took auto shop classes when I needed to do some major repairs to my car (it was a Studebaker) and I got elective credit for the class. Oh well. It was a pretty big job in my Accent. I had to remove the gas tank to get to the tank vent so that I could clean it out. Even with the experience I have had, I broke part of the fuel pump and had to replace it. I have been using a mechanic who owns a garage for the jobs that I don't have the tools for, or is just so big that I don't want to do it. Hey, I'm 61!! One idea is to find someone who repairs their own cars and have them mentor you on it and you will learn about the process. I always encourage people to work on things. A new canister for my Accent is $185 at the local dealer to give you an idea of the parts cost. I would guess at 2 hours+ labor for whatever the local labor rate is. I have also seen mobile mechanics that charge less per hour and repair the vehicle at your place. A friend of mine does that, and he is ASE certified along with being licensed. Best of luck to you. I think that Hyundai should recall the cars for the canister, but I guess that means every Hyundai that is on the road.

 

images in post #6 no longer available. Fixing to start troubleshooting very slow fill on a 2002 Elantra GLS

 

Thank you guys for the info on how to fix this annoying problem. Particularly BobQhy. Thanks so much.

I have a 2002 Sonata with the 4 cyl. 2.4 engine. I never did have a check engine light appear and therefore no code. It just would not fill up with gas - as explained countless times before.

I was hoping for an easy fix. Replaced the Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid first and checked to make sure it was receiving power. It was and this did not fix the problem.

Next, replaced the Vapor Canister. The old one had failed and the pellets were leaking from the "To Neck" opening. I took off the hose from that opening and there were some pellets in the line. I tried vacuuming the line to get more pellets out, but with not much success. I went to the filling station, but still wasn't working correctly.

I tried BobQhy's solution as posted here: https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/g...ge5/#post47096.

If I was more of a mechanic it would probably been better to just drop the fuel tank to access the Fuel Vent Valve that way. I made a mess cutting a hole in the trunk, but it works now. There were pellets in the Fuel Vent Valve that were preventing it from operating correctly. Now, I just have to clean up my mess and cover the hole that was made in the trunk.

Couldn't have done it without you guys. Thanks again.

 

Glad that worked for you. BTW when I mentioned that dropping the Sonata fuel tank was a pain, I should have said it was a giant huge pain in the but. The nuts attaching the tank straps were recessed and I could only get a 1/4 turn twixt repositioning the wrench. 2 inches of threads on each and no way to fit a ratchet in there.
ALSO, did you use the nibbler I suggested and how well did it work for you?

 

I couldn't find the the tool you suggested. It's probably an old product number. I bought some Stanley Fatmax right cut Aviation snips from Lowe's. They worked okay. The trunk is double layered near that valve and I could not cut through that. It was good enough though.

 

Thanks to everyone for useful information! Please help with some advice.

I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata Base 2.4, 90k. Some time ago the gas pump started to shut off when refueling, the problem got progressively worse over the next several refuelings, and now shuts off almost immediately, can't get any fuel in.

I brought the car to a mechanic, and meanwhile researched the problem online and found this thread. The mechanic called and said that they couldn't identify the problem and need to drop the tank to establish the cause, which would cost $300. I refused (I didn't want to spent that much at that point). When I picked up the car, I asked what they were able to find out. The mechanic said that they "smoked" the system, and all the filters and hoses were working fine. I then specifically asked if the charcoal canister and the fuel vent valve are ok (because the mechanic didn't mention any parts by himself), and he said that yes, everything is fine, because the system passed this "smoking" test.

My questions are: could they really check everything by this "smoking" the system without carefully checking everything as outlined in the first post? Without even removing the charcoal canister? Does it seem like they know what they are doing? Is it really possible that my problem is something else and they will find it after they drop the fuel tank?

My suspicion is that the answer is "no" to all those questions. So what should I do? Take to another mechanic? Do you think it might work if I show them the instructions in this thread and just ask to examine and possibly replace the charcoal canister? Maybe even ask them to do the custom job and clean the Fuel Vent Valve without removing the tank, as described earlier? Would the mechanics react favorable to such a request?

Would appreciate any comments and suggestions. I really don't want to spend several hundred $ for a repair on this car, which has many other problems and doesn't cost much. But I would even consider that - but when they tell me they still don't know what the problem is, I am afraid that removing the tank would not be the end of the story, and they will do a lot of work on the car, charge even more and still won't solve the problem.

 

The "smoke" test will only find a leak. The smoke test was totally pointless for this slow-fill problem because this issue is caused by a clogging. The smoke test won't find a clog.


So, no, they could not have properly (or even remotely) diagnosed this slow-fill issue via a smoke test. I hope they didn't charge you much for a totally useless test.


Unfortunately, if you are unable or unwilling to do this yourself, you are basically stuck paying outrageous prices from a shop. I don't think you'll find a shop willing to cut your interior paneling up to access the vent valve like somebody described doing earlier in this thread. Perhaps you could, but I would bet they'd charge you just as much as they would to drop the tank. $300 to drop the tank seems very, very high. It's not that much work, especially if the shop has a lift. Although for all I know that could be the going rate. A few weekends ago, I charged a guy to do a total AC install into his Honda, including the vacuum/charge, replacing all o-rings, replacing every single part of the system except for the hard lines (evaporator, expansion valve, new condenser, new compressor, new drier), AND even my building custom discharge and suction hoses for him and I only charged him $500 total. Granted, I'm only a "weekend mechanic" but if $300 is fair to drop a tank then I vastly undercharged for that AC work.


Same thing for cutting open and fixing the charcoal canister. If you are unable or unwilling to do it yourself, I'd doubt you could find a shop willing to do that for you. I'm sure they'll just prefer to stick a new OEM one on there for you. If they were willing to cut open and fix your existing charcoal canister then it almost surely would cost you as much in labor charges as a new OEM one anyway.


I really think you almost might be better off finding a mechanically inclined buddy with some tools and pay him a little bit of money to do these fixes described in this thread. I never ever take my cars to shops, but I've learned over the years that a lot of shops/mechanics are either unwilling or unable (from a creativity/skill aspect) to do "custom" fixes.

 

My quick guess is that $300 to R&R a gas tank is too high. Independent shops around San Diego charge about $105/hr, and with a hoist, I can't see it taking much more than an hour. James: I'm surprised that you could buy the A/C parts for $500. Tovstyj, I doubt if you will find a mechanic to do the custom repairs you want because of legal liability. If anything happens, even if it is not the fault of the repairs, often courts will find the mechanic at least partially liable. If the mechanic follows approved methods by the manufacturer, then he's off the hook. I have found that "mobil mechanics" will do things of a custom nature, and charge less. A lot are listed on craig's list, and some are a strictly cash business. Even if you are not mechanically minded, it is fairly easy to remove the black plastic cover to the rear of the rear wheel that covers the carbon tank. Try the test at the beginning of the thread. The clamps come off with pliers. When you take a hose end off, shake it and see if any charcoal granules come out. That will help you determine if the canister is defective. Just doing small things like that is a good way to learn about cars.