The dealer can be running some diagnostics while the cranking the engine, so they should be able to zero in on the problem pretty quickly. Sounds like a loose connector, failing relay or corroded wire that can't make enough contact when cold. Since you maintain the car quite well, I wouldn't be in a hurrry to get rid of it once this problem is resolved. I would think you should have at least another 60K of reliable transportation from it. I'd like to know what the dealer finds.

 

Well I got the car back this morning.

This is strange...apparently when I replaced the CKP sensor myself, I didn't use the right length bolt. The aftermarket sensor I got from Autozone is apparently a slightly different length (or lip?), and therefore, the original bolt from the old sensor was too short and was not holding it in tight enough. It had come loose and was making an intermittent connection, or so the dealer says. He couldn't find ANYTHING else wrong. They went over the car completely yesterday and that is all they found.

The battery cable they replaced a couple of weeks ago indeed did need replacing, I know that for a fact. I knew even before I took it to the dealer that the terminal clamp was broken, and the cable was corroded, so it's fine that they replaced that. Sometimes, the whole car would shut off and go dead (no lights, no clock, etc.) when you went to crank it and you could wiggle the cable and it would come back on, so I knew that needed to be replaced.

They didn't charge me anything this time for their diagnosis and to swap the bolt for a longer one (Even though it was my fault since I replaced the CKP sensor myself with an aftermarket sensor), and they even sent a car to take me home from the dealer after dropping the vehicle off and sent a car today to pick me up to get the car. Very excellent service and seem to be honest. They could have tried to rip me off by replacing all sorts of unnecessary parts, but they seem very honest. I like their service.

Now, we'll see if the car will continue to crank every time.

 

Glad to hear it has finally all worked out. And thankfully you have dealer with a good service department. I've found one too but I know some dealers are better than others.

 

Well, I too am glad you were able to get the problem solved and find a good dealership to work with. I was afraid this was going to be one of the odd ball wiring problems that are tough to diagnose and never provide any feedback to the computer. May your Accent live long and serve you well.

Ken

 

I am happy to report, the car is still cranking the first time every time and runs perfect. I have not had any more no-starts since the dealer tightened up the crankshaft sensor with a new bolt. So For those who are replacing their crankshaft sensors with an aftermarket one, I would check to see if the length differs and if it does, you need to use a longer bolt to hold it in tight, according to the dealer who solved my problem. My mileage has increased as well with the warmer weather and I saw 36.5 MPG on my last highway trip a week ago. I'm very pleased with having a car that runs when it is supposed to.

 

Whew! When I saw the post I thought "oh no, now what?". I'm glad this has turned out to be a good experience. Yes, when buying aftermarket parts, one should always compare them to the original for subtle differences like the bolt length.

 

Is it that his vlave timming is out............?

 

I'm not sure am understanding what you're saying....My car is fine See my post above!!!

It's been several weeks since I solved the problem. I just hadn't put the new Crankshaft Position in securely, and it was coming loose. A longer bolt which tightened it up solved the problem. And my positive battery cable was corroded and had to be replaced. My car is still running great....cranks first time every time and runs great.

 

Hey this problem with Accesnt not starting seems to be a bit if a plague. I have a 2002 Accest GSI. It has the huge 1.6 litre angine as apposed the the 1.5. I think the main difference is that it has a double overhead cam as well.

I have had an ongoing problem with the car cranking but not starting as well. The first two times I had the vehicle towed to to the repair shop and when it arrived there it started up no problem and the mechanic wasnt able to find anything wrong with it.

The last few times I just let the car sit for a few days and it magically started again.

A fe wweeks ago the car wouldnt start and has not started since. Reading these posts and several other on the web I decided to but the crankshaft positition sensor to see if it would solve the problem. I repalced it and the car wouldn't start. I wish i would have payed more attention to what some of the people had suggested and measured the sensor. The old one seems to check out fine with my ohm meter. In the oproces to track down the fault I located another similar sensor. It appears to be the camshaft position sensor. Looks ver much the same but has 3 terminals on ot. When it test this sensor with my ohm meter ther is absolutely no continuity at all.

DOes anyone know anythink about this sensor would I be correct to think that it is defective based on no continuity?

The hmaservice manual does not have any info for the 2002 model year it only seems to start at 2004. I looked at the info for this sensor on the 2004 model and seems to be quite similar.

Your advice would be appreciated

 

Either a bad crankshaft position sensor or a bad camshaft position sensor will cause this situation. Unless the ECM receives data that both are rotating in time, it will not activate the ignition or fuel components. You can confirm by checking for spark and fuel while cranking the engine with the starter motor.

Chasing sensors problems can get expensive without diagnostics. You need to have the car's computer scanned for error codes. If the camshaft position sensor is faulty, scanning should reveal a P0342 or 343 code. You can pay a mechanic to have this done or borrow a scanner (many parts store will provide loaners) and access the codes yourself. Oh yes, your 1.6 engine has a slightly larger displacement and benefits from having a dual cam valve train compared to the 1.5, but the engine management systems (at least the number and type of components) are pretty much the same for the two engines.