For the next time, something I forgot to mention, takes less than a minute, ALWAYS ,,,try the disc on the splines of the input shaft. It has happened where the disc splines were a different size than the input shaft. Just touch all the bases and less to be concerned about when installing trans.

 

The spine of the input shaft does match the clutch disc, I have checked the disc on the spine before installation.

I can get the transmission and engine about an inch or so apart and no closer. I have checked to see that there is nothing that is snagging the transmission from going any further. (See photos)

I can't turn the output shift anymore to assign the spine as the output shaft spins freely. I'm concerned that the gears have called out of place ( I don't know too much about the inner workings of transmissions).

I have a bore scope which I use tonight to see if there is anything inside the bell housing that is preventing me from closing the final gap.

I am considering turning the crank nut to try and align the flywheel that way as I can not longer turn the output with effect.

Any insight you may have would be very much appreciated


t

 

I figured out why the transmission and engine would not completely mate.

There are two short guides that sit between the engine and transmission. They pass through the pressure plate (see photo).


On removal of the transmission and engine originally (it's is the original clutch with 180, 000 km on it). The guide must have bulged a little. On reinstalling the pressure plate, the plate sat slightly off centre for unknown reasons (see photo).


I had a shower thought of why I could get the transmission an inch or so off the engine but no further. I had troubleshot everything else I could think that may be the problem.

The next evening I took the guide. Attempted to install the transmission and it went to mate with the engine first try.

I am going to dremel some of the metal off the pressure plate and guide to reinstall it to fit. I am not sure if it helps in anyway or reduces movement in the transmission and it is easy enough to fix with a dremel so I'll do it as a precaution.

I discovered the weep hole on my transmission too!



Thank you for all your help Hanky. I really could not have done it without you.
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If you know what any of these parts are please let me know. I found them under my car during the process of taking out my transmission out.

 

You're gonna love this,
As "Mechanics in a shop" we used to add a few extra unrelated parts to the floor under the job to play havoc with the tech. You could see him scratching his head attempting to remember where the extra parts came from. After a while , we all laughed it off and explained what was done.Since I did not remove those parts , I can't be sure where they belong. If nobody messed around with your job, you may find out the hard way when something leaks or doesn't work properly. Try retracing your every steps and you just might recall where they belong. Maybe someone that has recently done a clutch replacement can offer some better info.

 

The car is completely reassembled. I am confident that everything is in its place.

I have a new issue. The final piece I reinstalled after the clutch job was the battery. No console light which is strange. I went to put the headlights on, still nothing. I attempted to start the vehicle, no sound of fuel pump priming, and the vehicle did not start or move. It is as if there is no battery in the vehicle at the moment. I checked each fuse last night and started to follow the cables to see if something was not connected.

I am learning to test cables and circuits in my car at the moment. The only symptom I saw after doing inspections last night was to do with the battery. The battery began to produce heat after having the negative and positive terminals connected as I did inspections. The battery is disconnected at the moment as I don't want a fire (Lead acids Battery).

I have a hynes manual with the circuit layouts. I am also reading what I can find online.

At present I don't understand how the fuse box is cabled to the battery.

Any information or advice you have on discovering electrical gremlins would be appreciated.

 

Usually ,,when there is a direct short in a circuit , heat gets generated and if the circuit has any fuse protection it should blow the fuse.

Now,,,,,,, If the battery is getting warm with the cables connected ,there could be a pinched wire ,sometimes between the trans and engine.. Check for that.

The cable from the positive post of the battery connects to a junction that supplies the vehicle and also connects to the alternator output terminal.
Do you get any kind of spark when you connect the remaining battery cable to the battery? You should not get any sparks there.

This should be easy to find since no fuses are getting blown . This just involves anything that is allowing power to get to ground with everything off. Follow every wire that comes from the battery positive terminal and where it goes. One of them has a path to ground when it should not be.

 

I am really blown away by your knowledge Hanky. Electrics are my weakest area for automotive repair. You were absolutely right, something was grounded when it should not have been.

I was getting some pressure from strata in my apartment block to move the vehicle ASAP. I went to the wreckers and took photos of the wiring configuration of the same model car as me. As soon as I saw the first wrecked car I realised that I had grounded both wires coming from the fuse box (ugh). I went home, connected the appropriate wire to the positive terminal and the car has been taking me to work fine all week. It is so nice to have my car back! The clutch engages and disengages nicely. I spent some time adjusting the clutch pedal. I am still not sure if the clutch pedal is perfect however it feels like it fully disengages. I drive around 35 000 kms per year for work, so having my car back is a blessing.

Today I noticed a thumping sound when accelerating in first and second gear. There is also some transmission oil leaking under my car. A quick google search suggests it may be a bad CV joint. I will need to investigate further. I went on my back with a torch and saw some fluid at the bottom of the outside of the transmission. That isn't to suggest that the oil isn't coming from where the CV joint connects into the transmission. I didn't replace, just reused the CV circlips when doing the transmission job. Perhaps that is my problem? I'll order some new circlips and go from there. Thank you again for your wealth of knowledge.

 

Thank you for allowing me to share a little of that "Supposed knowledge".
Knowledge locked in a jar , helps no one !
Keep us informed of your progress, thanks.