Good Morning, If I am in the wrong forum, please feel free to delete. I have an issue with my 09 Hyundai Elantra., I bought a brand new battery, didnt drive the car for 3 days and when I tried to crank it on the 3rd day it did not satrt. So I assumed that I have a Parasitic draw; I tested it by removing the negative battery cable, connected my multi-meter to the respective ends, and I got a reading somewhere around 0.590 AMPS, with all accessories off and the door closed. I managed to trace the fuse that controls the "thing" that's causing the draw, and it was a 15AMP room LP fuse, located under the drive side fuse box. I did some research and found out that this particular fuse controls a bunch of stuff.

I then went on and started disconnecting the doors harness, to see if the draw would go away but that did not help. long story shortish. I unplugged the harness below from the driver side fuse box and the draw went away.

Other things I have done:
- Disconnected the radio, the roof light, trunk light, roof light close to the rear view mirror,driver side door and tail lights. but the draw still remains around 0.590 AMP

Can anyone give me any info one this harness and what it controls? or any better way to go about this?

 

When trouble shooting modern cars, the vehicle might have a few modules that require a little bit of time before they shut down
Example could be the BCM or body control module. It is in charge of interior lights and doors and trunk lights.

I would read the voltage on the battery with key in "OFF" position
12.5 volts would be nominal.
Then read the voltage on the battery with the engine running
The reading should be around 13.75 to 14.5 volts
If it has a smart charging system then turn lights on with engine running
Smart charging system needs to detect a load before it turns on/up the alternator field to charge the battery

 

I was working on a 2010 Hyundai ELANTRA and the battery would go dead after about three days of sitting. When I pulled the 15-amp room LP fuse, the 0.200 amp load dropped to 0.008 amps. This problem was intermittent as sometimes the parasitic load was only at 0.008 amps. I unplugged every module on this fuse and finally found that my 0.200 amp parasitic draw was relieved after unplugging the homelink module. So, if you have a 0.200 amp parasitic load which disappears when the room LP fuse is removed, it’s likely the Homelink module that is staying alive. The home link module is in the headliner and is easy to remove.

 

Thank you for that info.