My 2010 Elantra 2.0l has about 114000 miles, my job requires me to put a lot of miles on my car so it feels like it's been one problem after another since I got it last January. Just with the shop manuals to my car and Google I've gone from just being able to check my oil to replacing my EVAP components and now this. My car takes 40 drive cycles to trigger a check engine light so im usually just going by feel of the car instead of reading codes. The latest issue was rough idle, a pronounced ticking noise from the timing belt area, the vacuum test showed possible valve damage and a significant loss of power and also no check engine light.





I decided to tackle the timing belt which had never been replaced in this car hoping it would solve my problem. During the frustrating disassembly I noticed the crankshaft gear was not at TDC but the video said not to worry about it at this point so I continued. when I was adjusting the new tensioner it took 3 tries to get the arrow to stay barely in the window, the camshaft is at TDC, but the crank shaft is off by a lot. I can't find any clear information about how to fix this, all the manuals and websites just say to make sure they are aligned but not explaining what to do if they aren't.

I'll try to include pics, i didn't hear any noise while cranking the engine with the socket and felt good resistance until the last 15 degrees then I loose all resistance. My engine is an interference engine so im to scared to reassemble everything and hope for the best. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction

 

There are a few good videos on correct timing belt replacement, suggest you watch a few. you would need to remove the belt and place the crank gear in the proper place and the cam gear also, then install the belt maintaining manual tension on the correct side of the belt so the belt stays in the correct place then tighten the tensioner.

If you get that right and still have a problem , lets hope no valves were bent.

 

I did that but after putting everything together my car is still idling rough, and the ticking is still there, and now the rpms at idle are over 900 . Could valve problems be causing all this. The only thing I haven't done is open the cover, but even if I do I know I can't fix that on my own. every time I fix something a new issue pops up, I can't to keep hunting down the problems so maybe I'll just have to get rid of the car, might get decent trade in value for it
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