Snapon code reader shows this code on check engine light, 2011 hyundai sonata GLS 2.4L will not go above 2,000 rpm . The vehicle jerks at 2k rpm, forces back down below 2k and will not rev high when you press down on the gas. It will climb over 30 mph but extremely slow. The engine is not knocking or making any sounds, only known mechanical issue is a quart low on oil and bad cv driverside axle that clicks. It is my daily for the 25k miles I have had it, it is currently at 135,000 . After driving it for 20 minutes in rain this started.

 

Glow relay?
Is this engine a diesel engine?
If it is then the glow plugs are stuck on as the scan tool reads

 

It might be a good idea to get all the correct info.
According to the scan tool i is a 2.0 engine. We don't know if it is a diesel as avisitor questioned.
Can you help us out with the correct info?

 

We did fix it in the scanner because we had it as turbo, this is a non turbo gas 2.4L

 

My 2012 Hyundai Sonata has had this same error code 2x for glow relay after going through PDQ car wash. The first time the mechanic reset the code so it went away and it was fine. Now after going through the car wash it's on again. WTF

 

Mine is doing the exact same thing. What was wrong?

 

The electronics in the newer vehicles (late 2000s) operate in the millivolt range. That is a pretty low range and moisture/water can affect those very low voltages by providing a possible alternate path to ground for some signals. With that in mind, any connection that may be borderline, can be affected by the slightest amount of water intrusion thereby altering the signal and the computers pick those erroneous signals up and based on internal programming indicate something has changed and will sometimes depending on how great the difference is from the programmed spec illuminate the check engine light. Many times, after a period of time to dry out the problem is gone and the light is extinguished.. This type of problem can be difficult to isolate without wetting down sections to help pin down the exact spot.

Sooo, depending on how much you are bothered by the problem will determine how long and how much you want to spend to find the exact cause.

This gets a little more interesting, a fault may be detected caused by the moisture problem , that will affect another system and that system now throws a code. After the original problem disappears (dries out) the tech/mechanic goes on a wild goose chase looking for a problem that caused the lite to come on(code) and can't find anything because the original problem flew the coupe !

 

That would all be good but the light does not go off and it keeps the car in limp mode.

 

Then, if you cannot get the correct info from your scan tool,
erase the code and cancel the C/E lite. That should get it out of limp mode
If the problem is gone , you have a few choices.
Drive the vehicle and see if the code returns with normal driving
If it does, you will need to do some more detailed checking,
if it does not return stay out of the car wash until you pin down the exact location that is getting affected by water.

 

I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L that I noticed had sputtering issues at 2000RPM's and I saw the check engine light had just came on. I I was literally 100 yards from an parts store so I pulled in and the code came up for a Knock Sensor and the lady told me I had to take it to the dealership so I stopped at another parts store on the way home and Code P1326 came up and said Glow relay short circuit. I initially thought the issue might have something to do with the fact that I had just gotten the engine replaced under a factory recall (~6,000 miles ago) and the engine might be bad. After reading this thread I'm starting to think that it may have to do with a water issue. I changed my oil at 5,000 miles and completely removed the plastic splash shield under the car and had just driven through some massive puddles right before my car started having issues. This was 2 days ago and I was hoping that the car would dry out, my check engine light turn off and the problem would go away. I don't have a lot of money to take this to the dealership so I was thinking about just taking it to an independent mechanic down the road from me rather than the dealership. Does anyone have any comment on if they think it would be better to take to the dealership of a local mechanic? Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Thanks!