Hyundai Sonata The Sonata has grown to be the premier mid-sized sedan of the Hyundai name with the many interior options and the powerful V6 engine.

2011 Sonata GLS Stock 6-Speaker Setup

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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #1  
stargate125645's Avatar
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Default 2011 Sonata GLS Stock 6-Speaker Setup

I am looking to replace the speakers in my 2011 Sonata GLS, but for the life of me I cannot find any information on whether the dash speakers are part of a component set with the front door woofers, or if they are on a separate channel altogether.

I look at the wiring harness diagram from hmaservice.com and they only show front and rear door speakers for the PA710S head unit (which is what I have since I have the stock everything GLS). Yet, when I dismantle the door panels I see no crossover to imply that the dash speakers are tied into the same channel as the door speakers. Furthermore, Hyundai refers to the dash speakers as "midrange," and calls them out separately when discussing the capabilities of the PA710S head unit, explicitly stating that the dash speakers can handle 30W, spearate from the 40W of the door speakers.

Does anyone have any information that can clarify this issue for me?

Thanks in advance!
 
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #2  
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I find it hard to believe that no one has changed the stock speakers themselves or knows where to locate the crossovers...
 
Old Mar 16, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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From my GLS with 6 speaker standard radio:

The crossover is a small capacitor glued to the dash speaker. I couldn't find a uF value on it so I can't say what the high pass frequency is. Regardless, this indicates the wires up to the dash speaker are providing full frequency signals.

The two mounting screws are about 3 11/16" apart. Standard spacing for a 3 1/2" speaker is 4 1/8" but many aftermarket speakers have ovaled slots so you might find one that will work. The only issue is the mounting points are not centered (e.g. 3 and 9 o'clock) but offset somewhat (e.g. 2 and 10 o'clock). This is to move the speaker away from the windshield side of the opening. You could use a small aftermarket tweeter on custom mounting plate. You might be able to use the 3 1/2" by either trimming a little bit of the dash or using one factory mounting screw and swinging the speaker a bit into available space in the dash opening.

On the underside of the grille, there is a cylinder that matches up with the speaker, approximately 2 1/2" diameter. This might need to be trimmed depending on the amount the tweeter protrudes.

Sorry about the quality of the pictures.
 
Attached Thumbnails 2011 Sonata GLS Stock 6-Speaker Setup-top-view.jpg   2011 Sonata GLS Stock 6-Speaker Setup-bottom-view-capacitor.jpg  

Last edited by 2011IBGLS; Mar 16, 2011 at 09:47 PM.
Old Mar 30, 2011 | 08:32 AM
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Would you mind posting pics of what the speaker opening in the dash looks like the the spekers removed and possibly what the underside of the dash grill looks like?
 
Old Apr 4, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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Can you describe for us the proper way to dismantle the door panels?
 
Old Apr 5, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by koan00
Would you mind posting pics of what the speaker opening in the dash looks like the the spekers removed and possibly what the underside of the dash grill looks like?
Sorry, don't have those pics. The grille comes off easily. Use a plastic trim removal tool or a small slotted screwdriver with electric tape on it to avoid scratching the dash or the grille. Start at the A pillar and work around towards the center of the dash. When you get about halfway you can lift the grille; it will hinge at the base of the windshield.
 
Old Apr 5, 2011 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Peabody
Can you describe for us the proper way to dismantle the door panels?
Pictures are available on the online service manual at HMAService.com.

Remove the triangular trim (front of door on front doors and rear of door on the rear doors). They're on pretty tight but will come off.

Using a small pick tool or a small paper clip, remove the screw covers. There is one at rear edge of the rear door only and both doors have a cover at the grab handle. Using the pick tool or a small screwdriver, remove the cover behind the door handle / lock. It is easiest to pull the handle out a little and start from the back edge of the cover. Remove the screws.

Starting at the bottom, pop the plastic push in retainers. On mine, the rear doors had a particularly stubborn blue one at the rear edge just above where the trim changes color.

Carefully, raise the panel off the door. Unclip the door handle / lock mechanism. Unclip all electrical connectors.

If any retainers stay in the door, pull them out and put them back on the panel.

When replacing the panels, make sure the handle and the lock are flush to the door (i.e. "locked" position). Slide the connector until it clicks. Reconnector all electrical connections. Set the door panel in the rubber drip edge of the top of the door. Test your windows, power locks, and inside door handle. Starting from the sides push on the door panel until all the retainers click back in place. Replace your screws and covers. Pop your triangular trim back in place.
 
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