It is raining again and I cannot get under to check if the wastegate rod is moving when pressing the speed pedal, so I'll have to delay this test.

Until than, I've removed the boost solenoid and did a pressure test - air flows when blowing from either of the 2 hoses (vac/out). Also, I've connected it to a 9V battery and I couldn't hear any clicks. Can I safely assume that the boost solenoid is toasted?

Another 'experiments' I've done was to drive without the boost solenoid, then with the wastegate pipe unplugged and finally with both these unplugged. Now if the problem is with either the solenoid or the wastegate, shouldn't I get full uncontrolled boost in one of these 3 scenarios? Assuming, of course, that there's nothing else wrong. Or maybe they're both faulty, and then this was normal to happen?!

 

More updates about my neverending issues with this car:
- the wastegate actuator does move when I start the car, so I'm assuming the wastegate is fine;
- I've replaced the boost solenoid with a new one (unbranded but it works, compared to the old one that didn't)
Result: same problem, meaning no revs higher than 3000rpm and no power uphill. Low acceleration and a max of 60mph.
And the following error codes remained:


And these are the supported sensors reading on engine idle, from Torque:


- the above shows the boost based on the MAF


- and this one based on the MAP

At this point I'm out of ideas. Any other suggestions?

 

Need to know what the engine RPMs are at time of readings, very important.

 

A little more than 1000rpm idle.

I forgot to mention that I've also unplugged the intake airpipe from the turbo charger and it looks clean on the inside, propellers spin fine.

 

OK, following instructions that I have found on the web, I have tested the signal wire from the turbo boost sensor and it reads (key on/ignition off) 3.9V. My understanding is that it should be around 1.5V. Most likely the sensor is good since it has been changed recently, but can it be the wiring? They're all bundled together and I am afraid I'll make more damage if I try to split and follow each of them.
How can I check the wiring before buying a third sensor and can it be something else that can cause this unusually high voltage that makes the engine thin that there are 20psi in there?

PS the voltage for the sensor is fine (4.9V) and the earth cable connected to the battery negative is 12-8V, same as the battery. Only the signal is weird.

 

In reviewing all the info, I am puzzled with a few things.

First , the engine is a diesel and we don't get involved with vacuum here.
Second, I noticed a boost reading with the engine not even running, should have NO BOOST with engine not running. Info not reliable.

Wondering if the tool you are using is for diesel engines.
Diesel engines are governed to limit RPM. Need to know what the rated RPM is and if your info is accurate.

Diesels don't usually utilize a MAF sensor , but a MAP/Baro sensor.
The info provided doesn't seem accurate nor reliable.

Suggest you have a diesel shop check out your vehicle.

 

Well, imagine how confused I am, especially since I'm learning about the engines now. I'm still mistaking boost with vacuum, I should refer to either of these as pressure from now on. But isn't vacuum that pulls the wastegate actuator?

Maybe this will clear some things up: the newly installed boost pressure sensor was damaged (I think), and that's why it showed 20psi boost with key on ignition off. So I've switched it back with the old one.
Now I got better readings regarding the boost sensor. Still I have ordered another one, because I still think that it should show (key on/ign off) the atmospheric pressure), which is around 14psi (am I right?). So the moment of truth regarding the pressure sensor will be after 2-3 days. Meanwhile I have the same issues, low power and no revs higher than 3000. Only the error codes slightly changed. I'm crossing my fingers thinking about the next pressure sensor, but if this is not the cause of the problem and nothing will change, I'll probably have to invest into another garage, and another, and another, until I'll find one that can truly diagnose and fix cars.
Now (with the possibly good, probably still bad pressure sensor):


I'm using only the Torque application to scan for faults and this is connected through a bluetooth obd device, I don't have any other tools.

 

could you find any solution? I am facing the same issue.

Was it a turbocharger ?