Santa Fe rear brake drag NOT the usual!
#1
Santa Fe rear brake drag NOT the usual!
Hi guys we have a bit of an issue with the rear brakes on our Santa Fe. The rear brakes are sticking. After a run the discs are really hot and dragging. The garage has made sure that the usual sticking pads are NOT the issue they float nice and freely. The calipers have been taken apart and they are all okay too! They garage have found out that by opening the bled screws the then wheels turn freely. Please could someone advise what the issue may be it seems that the pressure is not leaving the rear calipers as it should. Any ideas? Please. Many thanks Mark
#4
This is an old thread. You should have started your own thread.
However, to try to answer your question, ...
One possible reason is ...
If the brake hose or brake line has been crimped or collapsed then it can act as a one way valve
Thus trapping the fluid in the caliper. Releasing the bleeder relieves the pressure.
However, to try to answer your question, ...
One possible reason is ...
If the brake hose or brake line has been crimped or collapsed then it can act as a one way valve
Thus trapping the fluid in the caliper. Releasing the bleeder relieves the pressure.
#5
Hello! I am also having the same issue with a 2010 Santa Fe with the rear calipers sticking. Did you ever resolve your issue?
#6
There could be at least 2 reasons for calipers to kinda stay applied.
One could be mechanical and the other could be hydraulic.
As stated in an earlier post if opening the bleeders relieves the problem, hydraulics are involved. If opening the bleeders results in no change, then there is a good possibility something is not allowing the caliper pads to retract and it could be resistance from corrosion.
How involved do you want to get with this ? It will involve removing the rear wheel, one or both, opening the bleeders and see what change you get.
It is rare that both rear calipers have the same mechanical problem, but is still possible.
How do you want to handle this ?
One could be mechanical and the other could be hydraulic.
As stated in an earlier post if opening the bleeders relieves the problem, hydraulics are involved. If opening the bleeders results in no change, then there is a good possibility something is not allowing the caliper pads to retract and it could be resistance from corrosion.
How involved do you want to get with this ? It will involve removing the rear wheel, one or both, opening the bleeders and see what change you get.
It is rare that both rear calipers have the same mechanical problem, but is still possible.
How do you want to handle this ?
#7
There could be at least 2 reasons for calipers to kinda stay applied.
One could be mechanical and the other could be hydraulic.
As stated in an earlier post if opening the bleeders relieves the problem, hydraulics are involved. If opening the bleeders results in no change, then there is a good possibility something is not allowing the caliper pads to retract and it could be resistance from corrosion.
How involved do you want to get with this ? It will involve removing the rear wheel, one or both, opening the bleeders and see what change you get.
It is rare that both rear calipers have the same mechanical problem, but is still possible.
How do you want to handle this ?
One could be mechanical and the other could be hydraulic.
As stated in an earlier post if opening the bleeders relieves the problem, hydraulics are involved. If opening the bleeders results in no change, then there is a good possibility something is not allowing the caliper pads to retract and it could be resistance from corrosion.
How involved do you want to get with this ? It will involve removing the rear wheel, one or both, opening the bleeders and see what change you get.
It is rare that both rear calipers have the same mechanical problem, but is still possible.
How do you want to handle this ?
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