need help
#4
03-14-2010, 01:51 PM
As suggested by Hytech, the 2.4 liter I4 in 1999 through 2005 Sonatas has two timing belts. One drives the camshaft (which you replaced), the other drives the counter balance shaft (which you may/may not have replaced). Both shafts have to be properly timed for the engine to run smothly. 02Sonata's experience suggest this can cause bigger problems that you want to avoid at all cost. You need to open the engine again and time the counter balance shaft. Replace the belt if you didn't the first time. The HMA service site has guidelines on this process.
#5
03-14-2010, 06:56 PM
As suggested by Hytech, the 2.4 liter I4 in 1999 through 2005 Sonatas has two timing belts.
Correct answer (1) timing belt, and (1) balance shaft belt...
Here is the catch.. the timing belt ALSO runs a balance shaft via the oil pump drive cog,, yes there is (2) balance shafts inside...
One drives the camshaft (which you replaced), the other drives the counter balance shaft (which you may/may not have replaced).
The timing for the small balance shaft belt is plainly marked, that is not easy to install incorrect, it is the 2nd shaft via the oil pump drive that can be easily put out of time, even though you "DID" align the mark, ask me how I know.....
Both shafts have to be properly timed for the engine to run smoothly.
You stated "both shafts"... you is 2/3 correct, but we need to correct the oil pump drive timing to bring the 2nd balance shaft into phase... See pic and added text below.
Correct answer (1) timing belt, and (1) balance shaft belt...
Here is the catch.. the timing belt ALSO runs a balance shaft via the oil pump drive cog,, yes there is (2) balance shafts inside...
One drives the camshaft (which you replaced), the other drives the counter balance shaft (which you may/may not have replaced).
The timing for the small balance shaft belt is plainly marked, that is not easy to install incorrect, it is the 2nd shaft via the oil pump drive that can be easily put out of time, even though you "DID" align the mark, ask me how I know.....
Both shafts have to be properly timed for the engine to run smoothly.
You stated "both shafts"... you is 2/3 correct, but we need to correct the oil pump drive timing to bring the 2nd balance shaft into phase... See pic and added text below.
Verify the following timing marks are aligned (refer to photos below):
- Camshaft sprockets (intake 1, 2; exhaust 3, 4)
- Balance shaft (5, 6) and oil pump sprocket/balance shaft (7, 8)
- Crankshaft (9, 10)
Here is where the fella went wrong --
Read carefully :
Set the oil pump sprocket so that timing marks #7 and #8 are aligned. Quickly rotate the sprocket back and forth, between the 9 and 12 oclock position feeling for a centering feel when the timing marks meet.
If the sprocket timing mark feels like it wants to move away from the other mark, rotate the sprocket one complete revolution and try it again.
Timing marks #7 and #8 will naturally align when the balance shaft is in the proper orientation.
Here the finished product (this one lost the balance belt, took out the rotor and crank postioin sensor),,, aint it pretty ??
Last edited by sbr711; 07-22-2012 at 02:05 PM.
#6
11-26-2011, 02:31 PM
oil pump/balancer shaft
Hi, "sbr711", I wish I had found your post a bit earlier!
My friend's wife's Santa Fe, a 2001 2ltr Petrol 2WD..(DOHC 16v G4JP Engine), was making a metalic "Clacking" from around the timing case, so we investigated by removing auxilliary belts and then starting the engine, but it was still there. Next removed upper timing cover, started it, but still there. Then the lower cover, refitted the engine mount and went to start it, wheron it didn't start but shed teeth from the cambelt in front of my eyes when turned on the starter. No such luck as to get away with no damage,(all 8 inlet valves bent and guides damaged). So we sourced a 2nd hand replacement head, which I have fitted. Now to the timing....which is where I have a problem. I have the procedure, and some (poor) diagrams, and have been searching for the "blanking plug" for positioning the front balance shaft with the oil pump sprocket. In the end I made the assumption that it must be the one that shown in your photos, (Small photo, top r/h corner... there is a plug with a recessed head on the forward face øf the block. you can just see the rim in the photo). It was very corroded and stripped the internal of the plug when I tried to remove it.
In the procedure I have it states that it is imperative to position the shaft with a 8mm rod, so with great care and dificulty I drilled the plug, with the intention of epoxying the hole afterwards. Drilled in increments to 8mm, and never to more than 10/15mm depth, I can get a 7.5mm rod inserted up to about 70mm, but an 8mm will only go in by about 20mm. In both cases the oil pump sprocket will rotate continually without any contact feeling on the rod. I assume it should lock in a position. My main problem is that when I turn the sprocket, with or without a rod inserted, I can feel and hear a "grating" noise. At one point it appeared to block completely at a point where the marks align, it did this both clockwise and anti clockwise. Then just as suddenly it turned again, but still with the noise/grating. (Possibly this was the original noise we were trying to source when the belt stripped, but I never tried turning the oil pump sprocket until I came to re-assembly). It has crossed my mind that if this had locked it could be what originally caused the belt to strip. It has also crossed my mind that I might have intoduced a bit of swarf from drilling, despite extreme care!
Any advice please!
Thanks in advance,
Tim
My friend's wife's Santa Fe, a 2001 2ltr Petrol 2WD..(DOHC 16v G4JP Engine), was making a metalic "Clacking" from around the timing case, so we investigated by removing auxilliary belts and then starting the engine, but it was still there. Next removed upper timing cover, started it, but still there. Then the lower cover, refitted the engine mount and went to start it, wheron it didn't start but shed teeth from the cambelt in front of my eyes when turned on the starter. No such luck as to get away with no damage,(all 8 inlet valves bent and guides damaged). So we sourced a 2nd hand replacement head, which I have fitted. Now to the timing....which is where I have a problem. I have the procedure, and some (poor) diagrams, and have been searching for the "blanking plug" for positioning the front balance shaft with the oil pump sprocket. In the end I made the assumption that it must be the one that shown in your photos, (Small photo, top r/h corner... there is a plug with a recessed head on the forward face øf the block. you can just see the rim in the photo). It was very corroded and stripped the internal of the plug when I tried to remove it.
In the procedure I have it states that it is imperative to position the shaft with a 8mm rod, so with great care and dificulty I drilled the plug, with the intention of epoxying the hole afterwards. Drilled in increments to 8mm, and never to more than 10/15mm depth, I can get a 7.5mm rod inserted up to about 70mm, but an 8mm will only go in by about 20mm. In both cases the oil pump sprocket will rotate continually without any contact feeling on the rod. I assume it should lock in a position. My main problem is that when I turn the sprocket, with or without a rod inserted, I can feel and hear a "grating" noise. At one point it appeared to block completely at a point where the marks align, it did this both clockwise and anti clockwise. Then just as suddenly it turned again, but still with the noise/grating. (Possibly this was the original noise we were trying to source when the belt stripped, but I never tried turning the oil pump sprocket until I came to re-assembly). It has crossed my mind that if this had locked it could be what originally caused the belt to strip. It has also crossed my mind that I might have intoduced a bit of swarf from drilling, despite extreme care!
Any advice please!
Thanks in advance,
Tim
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