Gents; Have a problem with my 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder. When I turn off the engine and remove the key the parking lights remain on along with the dash lights. The main headlights do turn off though. Additionally, I hear a one time click from inside the steering wheel. I've depleted the battery one time and am not looking forward to this happening again....at the Walmart parking lot maybe. Been doing some reading and the solution is all over the place. From replacing the fuse box to replacing the steering wheel switch or the body control manual....wow. Can any of you gents can give me a hand with this? Thanks

 

Did not hear from anyone so did more reading. There is a substantial number of folks who have this very same problem......2006 thru 2010 Sonata. On almost all occasions the problem is a relay that controls the parking lights. Sounds easy to just replace the relay but here's where things turn sour. Unfortunately, the relay is a permanent solid state affair that's soldered to the back of a circuit board embedded in the fuse block and impossible to replace without destroying the board. There are two ways to remedy this issue. Replace the entire fuse block that's inside the car ..... can be done but not the easiest thing to do. Or take off the front lower panel below the steering column then access the wires that go into the back of the fuse block. Then cut and splice into two wires...orange and orange and black...... and run those wires to a cheap auto store relay. From the relay, u can either tap into the existing fuse positions with dedicated inexpensive fuse taps or tap directly into the parking lights wires....two of them. Wire tie the relay and wires onto anything under the dash. Put the lower steering cover back on and fuse cover on and you're done. I found a used fuse block on Ebay for $60 bucks. I could go this route because it would be cleaner and less cluttered BUT it's a used block and who knows how long it will last. Or I can add a few spliced wires leading to a relay and from there to the existing fuse positions. I can wire tie and tape things up neatly plus if there is a problem with the relay, I can readily replace it. Tomorrow, I will start to tackle this issue and will keep you gents informed.

 

Your plans to replace the relay make good sense. I hesitate to suggest a procedure like this because don't know the capabilities of the person(s) asking.
I cringe when i hear ,get a cheap relay, because you get what you pay for , if lucky.

Sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what to do. You might find it easier to invest in ,if you don't already have it, a small spool of 14 ga. wire and butt connectors and run the wires into the engine compartment through the firewall where you can work easier and do the professional job you know how to do.That way everything is more accessible and you don't have to be a contorsionist to do a quality job. If you would , let us know how you make out and just maybe some other folks will try your fix.

 

Hanky, you are always there for us....thanks. That said, rose early before our screaming grandkids got up (how can they scream all day). With coffee in hand, went out to the car and got under the dash to look at what kind of job I'm getting into. My old back and bones hurt so much I had to sit in the seat. Just for the heck of it, I began messing with the ignition switch. I had read that a faulty ignition switch MIGHT be the problem. Low and behold, when I quickly pulled the key out the dash lights went out along with the parking lights. When I started the auto then turned it off, same problem...parking lights stayed on... until I turned the key off then quickly pulled it out. I did that about 10 times, always with the same results. Back to the internet looking for switches.....expensive. I discovered there are three sections to the thing. All sold separately......of course. The key cylinder with wires coming out for the glowing ring and another wire for I don't know. Next, there is a physical switch that starts the engine along with "accessories"...humm. Last there is the housing that all this stuff fits into. So I played "what's behind door number 1, 2 or 3". I chose the ignition lock cylinder. The reason is because it has two wires, one for the glowing ring and the other for I don't know but I suspect it has something to do with the parking lights. Besides, moving the key out turns the lights off so it must be the cylinder.....sounds logical but who knows. Anyway, I ordered a new switch which will be here in two weeks. From what I'm reading it's a breeze to put in...famous last words. Anyway, when it comes, I will let you know if I'm crying or tolerating my screamers!. Thanks

 

Thanks for sharing that info with us.
So while waiting ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Have a Happy ,Healthy and Prosperous New Year Everybody !!!!!
I'm going to go get another cup of coffee . I found ear plugs do a pretty good job of reducing screamer effects, lol.

 

You are right on Hanky.....wish a happy and healthy New Year to you also my friend.

 

Gents; Received the new ignition switch today. Installed it in less than 20 minutes. Unfortunately, the parking lights still stay on. Instead of throwing wrenches and yelling at the misses....she'll make me sleep on the couch anyway, I ordered a used fuse box from Ebay....don't believe I can deal with splicing in wires to a new relay while under the dash....would end up in the hospital. The box should b here next week. I'm sure it will take more than 20 minutes to install but after all of the reading I've done looks very doable.....we'll see. Thanks my friends.

 

I have to admit, I don't know why the parking lights are staying on in this case.

If someone has the means to produce a wiring diagram , we would appreciate it.

Some circuit may, don't know for sure, be using the parking light circuit for it's ground. Until we get a little more info , it might be a good idea to check the integrity of the chassis and sheet metal ground connections.

 

Hanky; U might be onto something.....on more than one occasion I've had issues with grounds. The confusing thing is that a ground issue causes weird problems that r hard for a mere mortal such as myself to diagnose. I did however, purchase a complete wiring schematic for $10 bucks from a European company. Since, I have already purchased the fuse block though, I'll install it before I go any further. If that does not work I will look at the diagrams and start tracing wires to grounds. Thanks for bringing a possible ground issue to my attention!

 

Hanky; I was going to let the area that I dismantled for the new ignition, stay as is until the fuse block arrives. However, I need to see my sis and my buddies at the VA early next week so, I put everything back together. You won't believe this but the lights work as they should! Did it fix itself?....no way. I'm sure one day when I come out from Walmart, the battery will be dead. The thought of asking a little ol lady for a jump bothers me. I'm going to put in the fuse box when it arrives whether it needs it or not!