I am aware of sometimes some things are best left alone.
If it were me I don't think I would open the possibility for additional problems by going into replacing the fuse panel unless I was definitely sure that was the problem.

Certainly not questioning the quality of your work, for as much as I enjoy doing electrical work , why create the possibility for an addl problem with something that might have been working OK.

So consider carrying a spare battery along with the jumper cables and leave the ol ladies help some other guys.
Until the cause is determined and corrected, what do you think?

 

I hear what you're saying Hanky but it's all moot anyway. For the heck of it, tried the lights in the Hyundai again. Wouldn't you know it but the parking lights went back to the same old problem ...won't go off after key removal. Actually, this lends more credence to your suspicion of a ground issue being correct. Still want to put the f/box in first though. While installing the ignition key, I noticed a stamped steel plate below the steering wheel. I bet it reinforces the area so the dash does not shake going over a bump. If I remove that plate...looks easy....will have plenty of room to remove and install the f/box. Should be able to do this in 1/2 hour...might be overly optimistic here. After that, if the lights don't work correctly....after a good cry.....I'll start looking for a bad ground. As for the little old ladies, I'm married to one..... I pity the person who asks her for help at a Walmart parking lot! Thanks my friend

 

Since we are in a joyful mood,,,

I just love that TV commercial where the woman says She met her husband on that site.
She didn't say if it was before or after they were married ?

In addition, most guys will always kid about married relationships meaning no harm.
As for me , yes I would do it all over again, I want that chance to get even, just kidding, lol.

 

Hi, I am a new member, read this thread with interest and signed up to reply. If you are in the Walmart parking lot and electric won't go off, can you just disconnect the battery so it doesn't drain? Or is this risky in any way so you have to just let it drain and then have a battery and/or jumper cables on hand? I have more than just an idle curiosity in the answer to this question because I too am having electrical problems with my 2013 Sonata and I have the same risk of getting stranded. Thank you.

 

Hanky....I know what ur talking about with ur misses. Mine constantly reminds me how I'm not measuring up....where are the men that do measure up? As for a potentially dead battery issue, here's what I bought the misses for her minivan...
The van is fairly new but the battery was dead coming out of WM one day so we used the start pack. Because we did not charge it in awhile it only showed two charge lights out of 4. However, it started the van very easily. After that I went back into Walmart and bought a new battery...we could not figure out why the battery was dead! Although, a start pack is no substitute for a sound battery and properly working electrical system, the packs will hold a charge for an amazingly long time and will give u peace of mind. We only have one start pack in the wife's van but I will get one for my Hyundai along with a small tool bag and cigarette lighter tire pump. Old cars need those basic things.
As for Farmer's 2013 Hyundai, b a little more specific with your electrical issue. Although, electrical issues r my worst nightmare, there are a few things we can help you with. Thanks

 

I'm glad we all have a pretty good sense of humor.
I like your temporary solution, it reminds me of a pilot working over loads of maps and compass readings and when he finally takes off you see him following the railroad tracks.

Mr. Farmer,
You can remove the negative battery cable to prevent further drain from the battery and carefully reconnect it when ready to leave.
Doing this does a few things,
It resets all the previously adaptive memory .Things like some radio stations ,memory seat, mirrors if equipped. Can also require some normal driving to set some shift points., It does no damage just expect a few things that will adapt as you drive. As Dave stated could you be a little more specific as to anything you might have noticed that does not seem normal..

 

My Sonata has developed several electrical issues and as I am not mechanically talented, I took it to two mechanics. In short, the more knowledgeable one says it looks like I need a new IPS (I may be forgetting the exact term, but it's the electronic motherboard, I gather). That is an expensive item so while I try to work out what I will do, I wondered what would happen if I disconnected the battery. In brief, the problems include: both key fobs stopped working; randomly flashing headlights; tail light going on and off randomly; and the latest was yesterday; when I turned off the car and removed the key fob from the starter slot in the center console - b/c fobs have stopped working, this is how I have to start it now - the ignition remained on. Meaning, the engine was off but the dash screen stayed on, which drains the battery. I wasn't able to get it to turn off, but when I drove it a few minutes later and stopped, this time it worked normally. Thanks.

 

Hanky, just saw this reply. Thank you for telling me about disconnecting the battery. I read somewhere that it's "dangerous". I guess since the ignition is still technically on.

 

Mi. Farmer; I'm certainly no expert but looks like you have a classic BCM ....body control module...problem. The clue is the various seemingly unrelated electrical issues. My boy's 2005 Malibu started acting like your auto so being a good father....but poor...I bought him a used BCM from Ebay. After I installed it I noticed the miles were way off and the car would only run a couple of seconds before shutting off. After more reading I discovered a used BCM is not the answer because it's programmed to the original auto and most importantly the starting security circuit. It can be utilized but only after being reprogrammed to your auto but that is a visit to the dealer and more money. There are, however, several shops listed on the internet that will take your BCM repair then re flash and program it to the VIN number of your car. Since, I might not be correct here....Hanky help us out....you should call one of the listed shops and tell them about your issues. Taking out your BCM is not hard and it should take no more than a week turn around time. Doing the repair this way will save you a substantial amount of money but without a guarantee. The shop that you call, however, should give you a guarantee for the repair of the BCM itself. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

That was funny about the pilot. Just realized I missed that upon first read of your reply, Hanky. David, the kind mechanic who determined it must be a bad IPS gave me a diagram of the wiring and it shows the tail light running to an "IPS Control Module". Is that the same thing as a "Body Control Module"?