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Been doing more reading. Although, still cannot isolate a 2013 Sonata IPS, I found a picture of one. It has small metal legs extending out from it. Looks to me it's soldered to some kind of circuit board and because of this you must replace the entire board. This is the reason you can't buy it individually and costs so much. Incidentally, I'm having the same issue with a relay that's permanently attached to a board on my older Hyundai. My board costs $500 new from Hyundai but I purchased one used from Ebay for $60 bucks. All well and good but it is used and might be bad....but if it's bad I MIGHT b able to return it for another then install it.....I'm retired and have the time so, I'm willing to take a chance. However, if I had a business I would never buy a used board for a customer. This is what u r up against. Remember though, as u stated, the IPS might not b causing all of your issues. A mechanic that's good with electrical issues deserves every penny he makes! We'll keep at it.
Above is a post from another Hyundai site that discusses a 2012 Sonata wiring circuit issue. Probably, u r 2013 is much if not exactly the same. Aside from the technical jargon, here's what I got from it. The right tail light and the right front lights stopped working, The IPS....smart switch....replaces the fuse and relay in that circuit There are several IPS switches protecting several different wiring circuits. The "smart" part of the IPS senses when current is either too high r too low then shuts off the electrical current. Because it is solid state...and modern... the switch is 99.9% infallible. As a test, disconnect the rear inoperative light. If the front starts working then bingo, the IPS is good and the wires from the IPS in the fuse box to the tail light have a short. If the front light does not turn on then reconnect the rear light and pull the front. If the back light starts working then bingo, the short is in the front. Does any of this make sense? Is only one side of your tail and front light not working? Like Hanky stated we need to know exactly what is going on with your auto. I've also attached a couple of interesting...to Hanky...images Thanks
images. Thanks.
Last edited by David Snyder; Jan 10, 2022 at 08:36 AM.
To answer David: the tail light on the left only is out. On the left only also, the front light - not the headlight, but the one that is behind the orange cover (not sure if this is called a parking light or not) - comes on briefly and then goes off. What you do with that, I don’t know. But the other things still happen, like both headlights occasionally flash when in the “on” position...both key fobs won’t function...ignition remaining on that one time...the headlights have remained on even though set to the “off” position...also the overhead light does not switch off after you turn the car off...and one time, the doors didn’t lock/unlock automatically when put in drive/park. Think that’s the whole laundry list. Yes, the reason that part costs so much is that it’s part of the circuit board. The mechanic I like has “Auto Electric" in the name and was recommended. The other one I felt was swimming without his fins on, so to speak, and the dealer, forget about it.
Hanky, I’m not really sure what lights are supposed to come on upon ignition. What happened, once so far, is that I pulled the key fob out of the console slot, turned the car off, left the car, and the car gave me that ringing bell that happens when you don’t turn the car off and try to leave. The dash screen said, turn the car off, you are draining the battery, and also the dash said key fob not detected (which it does when you press the ignition button but don’t have your key fob in the car). This is what it looks like when you have your ignition on but the engine off. I can’t describe exactly how the mechanic tested it, but he found that the IPS wire #7 connects to the IPS control module on one end, and the tail light on the other end (from the diagram which I will get scanned), tested the tail light and found that power is not getting to it, apparently because the IPS or at least wire #7 is malfunctioning. He tested it to find that the wire isn't broken, it's the power module end where the error occurs. I am not sure but I would think someone checked the fuses, either this mechanic or the previous one who spent a lot of time and money changing bulbs and then decided it must be the rear tail light socket that needed to be replaced.
I don’t have the skills to fix the car, but this discussion helps me ask intelligent questions at the mechanic. I think what I want to do is try to have the car keep running while I either shop for a replacement or wait out the current unfavorable market conditions and then shop. Thanks.
Ms. Farmer.....from what u describe with the various light, ignition and fob issues, I still think something is going on with the BCM. But then your mechanic which u trust, alluded to "a module" didn't he. The key fobs. ignition and lights only have one common denominator.....BCM. Hanky and myself are doing everything we can but we are at a huge disadvantage in that we are not physically in front of u r car. Your mechanic is in front of your auto.. I'll give you a simple tip.....if your mechanic has any tools or a scanner that has the name "Blue Point" on them, he's your man! The reason is those tools r expensive which means the mechanic is a professional and invested a lot money in quality tools. U might tell your mechanic someone on the Hyundai net mentioned u might have a BCM problem then watch his reaction. If he's a professional he won't get upset. Hang in there!
Thanks for the diagram. I will devote some time to digest what is happening as compared to what is supposed to happen.
I am not sure we are getting a complete picture of what is working and what is not.
At least to me , I would need to know just what lights are working when they are supposed to and which are not working when they are supposed to and in addition what lights are working when they ARE NOT supposed to. It may sound confusing , yes it does, but need to have as much info as possible to pin down where what is happening , or not happening.
These vehicles have a CAN BUS system and the request for certain functions goes thru the CAN network to the module that actually carries out the command.
I do not believe we will have the equipment to verify everything ,but maybe we can isolate it.
Yeah, I just don't know when specific lights should come on or not, so that I can't answer. I'll mention BCM. Keep thinking it must be related to IPS somehow.
What I need to know is;
1-. when you turn the parking lights on, what works and what does not, front ,, rear,, side and dash lights
2.- when nothing is turned on (requested) what is on , that should not be on outside the vehicle, front ,rear & side
3.- Does your vehicle have Daytime Running Lights, (headlights come on when the vehicle is started )
Hanky; I extracted that partial wiring diagram from a post from another Hyundai site.....that's all there was. Ms. Farmer stated she would post the wiring diagram she got from her mechanic. Other than purchasing a 2013 Sonata wiring diagram myself which I'll never use, I don't know what else to do. In the meantime, the reason I did not get back with you right away is because I got my used fuse block in the mail today. What I thought would b a half hour job to install took me all day and I'm still not done!. Old cars.... aren't they fun!
I'm still trying to assemble the info relating to the problems.
One thing that seems to stick with me is , IS THE IGNITION NOT SHUTTING DOWN when it is supposed to.
Another thing, tail lights are being affected at the same time. My first concern is why and what might be causing this.
Is this the correct info, or am I overlooking something?
What is more confusing is,
Dave's vehicle , I believe has a tumbler type ign /start sw and Farmer's vehicle has a push to start button. Is this correct?